Kta70 = DIYTube part
R1 = R1, R2 1k
R2 = R3, R4 475k
R21 = R11, R12 100k
R3 = R7, R8 1k
R4 = R5, R6 100
R5 = R9 with C3 across it, R10 with C4 across 2.7k, 220pf
R9, R10 = Jumpers
R6 = R13, R14 5.6k
R8 = R15, R16 1m
R11, R12 = R19, R20, R21, R22 43K 2w
R13, R14 = R23, R24, R25, R26 150k
R12, R15 = 1k 1/2w (need 4)
R7 = R18, R19, Q1, Q2 (resistor and leg LM334 soldered together and inserted to R7’s pad closest to the boards 12ax7, the other end of resistor soldered to the middle leg of LM334 and remaining outter leg of the LM334 to the other R7 pad) (see top picture for orientation)
C1 = C5, C6 330pf
C2 = Jumper
C4, C5 = C8, C9, C10, C11 .047uf
Both kta middle B+ points = 300v
Both Outter B+ points = 350v
One .1uf (DIYtube C1) capacitor soldered from pin 1 of the 12ax7 to any pad that connects to pin 2 of the 12au7 on the side closest to it under the board (See jpg) insulate the capacitor’s leads
One .1uf (DIYtube C2) capacitor soldered from pin 6 of the 12ax7 to any pad that connects to pin 2 of the other 12au7 on the side closest to it under the board (see jpg) insulate the capacitor’s leads.
Left bias pot going to one of the KTA70’s boards bias spots on the left and then a wire going from it to the other bias pad on the same side.
Right bias pot going to one of the KTA70’s board’s bias spots on the right side of the board then a wire going from it to the second bias pad on the same side.
For the trim pot I drilled a small hole on top of the board, please look at the pics, and then under the board ran one outter leg to the KTA C4 and R15 meet and the other side of the trim to where C5 and R12 meet. The middle to DIY R27 or R28 and the other end of the resistor to a ground point with a small wire run. I glued the trim pot on with the top with some gorilla glue.
Cut the two traces that are black in the below picture