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Re: WIMAs or Orange Drops?

PostPosted: Tue Mar 29, 2005 7:35 am
by Shannon Parks
EWBrown wrote:WHich caps sound better, WIMAs or Orange Drops? I've tried both in various sircuits and never noticed a real big difference. Reason I ask is that AES has WIMA "red box" MKP4 and MKP10 400 and 630V caps on "clearance" in addition to their APril thru June flyer specials.


Hi Ed,

I bought some of these from AES and some of them don't match the size and lead spacing of the latest datasheets - so getting a set that will fit perfectly might be hit and miss. I bought a set of Xicon boxed caps and Wima boxed caps with my last Mouser order, and none of them looked right on my board. The Sprague matched the best. Yellow_Light_Colorz_PDT_06

As far as testing, they all tested identical.

Shannon

PostPosted: Tue Mar 29, 2005 5:50 pm
by TerrySmith
Speaking of caps, I've been using Dayton caps sold by Parts Express. They almost look like the original black beauties. You could paint the ends black and position the logo down for a stock apperance.

Also, they sound great and are fairly cheap. Yellow_Light_Colorz_PDT_06

ODs it is

PostPosted: Wed Mar 30, 2005 6:30 am
by EWBrown
I'll stick with the orange drops for this one, I've had good consistent results with them, and besides, they fit the PCB nicely. I mkay still load up on cheap WIMAs for other future projects.

/ed B in NH

Re: ODs it is

PostPosted: Wed Mar 30, 2005 7:14 am
by Shannon Parks
EWBrown wrote:I'll stick with the orange drops for this one, I've had good consistent results with them, and besides, they fit the PCB nicely. I mkay still load up on cheap WIMAs for other future projects.

/ed B in NH


Hi Ed,

Buy some of the .33uF and .47uF caps (if there's any left) as they end up being real handy.

Shannon

PostPosted: Thu Mar 31, 2005 11:41 am
by beatgr
Shannon -

Nice board and manual. What did you use (software) for the schematic diagrams in the manual? I have some Tech Notes (Kit Building, How to Solder) that I am currently revising -- if you desire to post on this web site (could customize for diytube, etc).

BTW, when you desire to post a reply on the forum - it drops you back to the forum index and then the second attempt at "post reply" works fine. Another little bug to address.

G. Beat

Thanks

PostPosted: Thu Mar 31, 2005 9:27 pm
by Shannon Parks
beatgr wrote:Shannon -

Nice board and manual. What did you use (software) for the schematic diagrams in the manual? I have some Tech Notes (Kit Building, How to Solder) that I am currently revising -- if you desire to post on this web site (could customize for diytube, etc).


Thanks, G. I use an old version of Orcad.

I'd love to host or link to any DIY help - thanks.

beatgr wrote:BTW, when you desire to post a reply on the forum - it drops you back to the forum index and then the second attempt at "post reply" works fine. Another little bug to address.


I haven't seen this - does it happen to you every time? It could be related to the funky log in - which sometimes requires logging in twice.

Shannon

ST-70

PostPosted: Sat Apr 02, 2005 1:04 pm
by Casher O'Neill
Thermion,
I also have an early '70s ST-70, with the Japanese trannies in it. My power transformer always was running hot with TVA giving me more voltage than I needed. I got the larger PT from Ned, and it hlepd out quite a lot.

Wish I had waited for this board. I have the Curcio upgrade in mine, but this looks to be built way better. Mine sound great though, and I'm happy with it otherwise.

PostPosted: Sun Apr 03, 2005 9:17 pm
by s2kov
what is the size of the pcb?

dims

PostPosted: Mon Apr 04, 2005 6:06 am
by Shannon Parks
s2kov wrote:what is the size of the pcb?


The board is 6.5" by 3.25".

Shannon

Sockets

PostPosted: Mon Apr 04, 2005 11:36 am
by EWBrown
Uncle Ned has the same (or similar) sockets here:

http://store.yahoo.com/triodeel/9pincerpcmou.html

$1.95 each

/ed B in NH