section line speaker for st-70 ?

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section line speaker for st-70 ?

Postby mati1979 » Wed Feb 10, 2010 8:09 am

Hi, yesterday i have bought a new line speaker 1,
(more big than my old line monster 2)

A new line 1 is 2x2,5mm (3 mts)
this is very big for st-70 dyna ?
I think now decreased the mid and high frequencies (tweeter and mid)


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Postby Vince » Wed Feb 10, 2010 9:50 am

Quote:
"I think now decreased the mid and high frequencies (tweeter and mid)"
That is because the wires in the blue line (which carries the mids and highs) is twisted too tight!!
HTH, Vince
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Postby mati1979 » Wed Feb 10, 2010 10:01 am

Vince wrote:Quote:
" is twisted too tight!!
HTH, Vince


sure ? in a shop tell me: " this twisted is for
low inductive"
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Postby battradio » Wed Feb 10, 2010 2:59 pm

Yes , but twisting increases the capacitance , decreasing the the high frequicy's and mid range .
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Postby antiquekid3 » Wed Feb 10, 2010 4:18 pm

Why not just use coat hangers? :-)

http://consumerist.com/2008/03/do-coat- ... ables.html

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Postby Geek » Wed Feb 10, 2010 4:32 pm

True story:

At an audio festival, I surreptitiously changed speaker cables during a listening test between songs.

The one they were listening too was some $10/ft. audiophool cable (I don't know the brand, but it was not Monst*r).

They did not hear a difference the entire night.

What I replaced it with......

2 x 25' lengths of generic 16Ga. speaker wire from the dollar store that cost..... $1 for each 25' length.

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Postby burnedfingers » Wed Feb 10, 2010 5:06 pm

Its amazing isn't it. People equate cost with performance. I think the FTC should step in one of these days and put a halt to all the BS performance claims. Its amazing that we can convence ourselves that we hear a little more defined sweeter sound with $2K interconnect and speaker cables than what standard cables are able to deliver. I guess there is a sucker born every minute.
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Postby antiquekid3 » Wed Feb 10, 2010 6:22 pm

Sorry to get off topic, but Monster is absolutely ridiculous. I've read horror stories of Best Buy and Monster...connecting one HD TV to a video source using Monster's HDMI cable, and another identical TV to the same video source using composite video...with a sign that says, "Can you see the Monster difference?" I guess most people could tell that the TV that says "Monster" on it looks a lot better, but only a few people could tell the difference between a yellow RCA cable and a large Monster HDMI cable! :-)

Electrically speaking, you don't need a quality cable to provide good digital transfer. As long as the receiving end can tell the difference between a "0" and a "1," the picture will look the same. For short distances especially, always go with the cheapest cable you can find!

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Postby mati1979 » Wed Feb 10, 2010 6:30 pm

but a sound better with the cheap cable ( i can hear)
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Postby EWBrown » Wed Feb 10, 2010 8:22 pm

I'll agree with the statement that any 16 gauge "zip cord" is perfectly good for speaker wires (lines) and that overpriced "audiophool grade" cables are a waste of money. Just use the proper fitting spade lugs or banana plugs on the ends as needed.

They may make more of a difference in the "ultra-high-end" $25,000 systems, but then I'd still have to be convinced by actually hearing it and experiencing if there were actually any discernable difference.

The "placebo effect" isn't only about medicine... All of the hocus-pocus about virgin oxygen-free crystalline copper and gold-rhodium plated contacts is just so much ЕРУНДА (Yerunda).

/ed B

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Last edited by EWBrown on Wed Feb 10, 2010 8:47 pm, edited 2 times in total.
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Postby EWBrown » Wed Feb 10, 2010 8:38 pm

Last year, I read on one of the other audio forums about using a Wal-Mart outdoor extension cord for making speaker cables. The claim was this cheap cable was as good as any expensive "audiophool grade" cable, at a tiny fraction of the cost.

The cord is a Woods "Yard Master" 40 foot (12.2 metres) 16/3 gauge "Patio Cord" . The part number is 2382. Just cut the plug and receptacle off the ends, cut it into two equal (20 foot or less) lengths, strip and connect the ground and neutral wires together (or just use the neutral only) for the - side, and the "hot" lead for the + side. Terminate the ends as needed.

I suppose any 16 gage extension cord should work, the Woods has a nice clean white outer jacket, so it helps in the WAF category. And it's low cost.

Of course, being sold at Wal Mart, the cable is "custom made in China".

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Postby burnedfingers » Thu Feb 11, 2010 5:51 am

I don't agree with the ultra high end cables and have voiced this opinion on other forums also. I have never heard an A/B test that proved any difference. One thing that needs to be mentioned is the length of cable run to the speakers. The longer the run the heavier the cable ga needs to be to prevent power loss. I personally use a good grade of 12ga commercial speaker wire.
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Postby nyazzip » Thu Feb 11, 2010 11:54 pm

regarding cable capacitance, there are many many photos of rock gawd Jimi Hendrix using coiled guitar cables, which cannot be bought anymore(you know, like telephone cord)....and, the Hendrix tone is the holy grail for most cork sniffing middle aged "guitar players".
the wires remain side by side but follow a common helix...could geometry like this also create capacitance...?
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Postby EWBrown » Fri Feb 12, 2010 10:33 am

From my experience with old (cheap) coiled guitar cords, they tended to break easily and always at the worst possible time. Of course, most of Jimi's giutars probably didn't last a long time either, with his unique "lighter fluid" treatment or using the Strat as an "impact tool" on a nearby amp ;-)

But then he could afford lots of amops, axes, cords (and drugs)...

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