10 lbs of stuff in a 9 lb toroid amp

knowledge base for the classic Dynaco ST70

Postby Shannon Parks » Thu Dec 14, 2006 6:22 am

You guys are bumming me out. Yellow_Light_Colorz_PDT_32 I was hoping that the EH KT88s were going to be a perfect, cheap power tube for the 50W+ projects. Good thing I like the Sovtek KT88s.

I will admit that I hate the big red star on the Sovteks. Any simple solvents to wipe that silkscreening off?
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Postby EWBrown » Thu Dec 14, 2006 8:11 am

I will admit that I hate the big red star on the Sovteks. Any simple solvents to wipe that silkscreening off?



A .22 caliber rifle at ten yards usually gets the job done Yellow_Light_Colorz_PDT_05 Yellow_Light_Colorz_PDT_07 Yellow_Light_Colorz_PDT_08 Yellow_Light_Colorz_PDT_09 :o Yellow_Light_Colorz_PDT_11 Yellow_Light_Colorz_PDT_01 Yellow_Light_Colorz_PDT_04 Yellow_Light_Colorz_PDT_21

No, seriously, that red star paint job is tougher than the glass.

Why is it that the markings on a real Mullard or Telefunken tube will wipe off with only a little moisture, but these new tubes have baked-on, godzilla-proof paint and markings...
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Postby WA4SWJ » Thu Dec 14, 2006 9:18 am

It's the new marketing approach. Your trade name is everything!

(Don't ask me how I know.)

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Postby mesherm » Thu Dec 14, 2006 10:11 am

I have some SEDs with a large purple spider looking thing silk screened on....eeeeekkk
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Postby erichayes » Thu Dec 14, 2006 9:18 pm

Hi All,

I've been pleading with both New Sensor and JJ to quit using red paint for their logos. I don't know how many times I've freaked because my peripheral vision caught a JJ or Sovtek output tube with its plate apparently glowing bright red, only to find out it's just the damned logo.
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Postby Shannon Parks » Fri Dec 15, 2006 7:29 am

separks wrote:I will admit that I hate the big red star on the Sovteks. Any simple solvents to wipe that silkscreening off?


I did it! I was on toilet duty last weekend (amazing how those things work) and after replacing the fill mechanisms, I shot the bowls with a cleaner called "The Works" - some uber-generic stuff. Key ingredient is 20% Hydrogen Chloride. Anyhow, any rust stains instantly vanished, unlike some Lysol branded goop I've used in the past.

So before work this morning, I donned some rubber gloves, shot some in a cotton ball, and instantly rubbed away all the Sovtek silk-screening. This one was well worn and horrid looking. Now it could pass for a Tungsol on eBay. :o
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Postby EWBrown » Fri Dec 15, 2006 8:01 am

At most hardware stores you can find "Muriatic Acid" which is diluted (about 33%) hydrochloric acid (HCl or Hydrogen Chloride).

Nasty stuff, take all of the usual precautions.


It is intended to remove rust stains from concrete and masonry, I bet it'd clean up a terlet bowl right quickly (and probably kill all the biological action in a septic tank). Might be just the ticket for removing "rust zits" from an ST70 chassis, as well.

It's around $4 to 5 per gallon.

/ed B in NH
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Postby WA4SWJ » Fri Dec 15, 2006 8:21 am

Muriatic acid will cause painful burns to your skin and will release some nasty vapors. It can easily blind you and kill you slowly (dissolves yer innards) if you drink it. Don't mix it with other household chemicals and keep it well away from children and pets. Use in a well ventilated area and as Ed said, BE CAREFUL! You can also use it to adjust the pH of your swimming pool downward.

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Postby EWBrown » Fri Dec 15, 2006 9:39 am

Even better yet, only use Muriatic Acid outdoors.

/ed B in NH
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