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Near and dear to many of our hearts is Dynaco's ST35. Here is an example by 'The Maestro.' http://www.ebay.com/itm/Dynaco-ST-35-audiophile-quality-upgraded-parts-chassis-cage-/191735380866

I'm seeing this guy as Mark Metcalf's character from the episode of Seinfeld. O Mio Babbino Caro.

He has some nice parts but.... First thing I notice is the power transformer is backwards. The heater wires should come out toward the back and cross the output transformer secondary wires at a 90 degree angle, not parallel them. What is up with the 'white glob'? Is it adhesive tape? Is this R11? What is the brown resistor at the end of the white glob? Is this mess floating or attached to the chassis? Is the large black power resistor [R12?] floating? Why so many splices? For $1,000.00 I would expect wires that are the correct length.

I sent this guy a message and tried to be gentle but no reply so far. If this sells for a grand I'm selling mine for $10K.

I am pretty sure that there are some good amp buiders out there that will assemble an amp kit you buy for less and build it to your specs!!
Whew, I sold my "modded" ST-35 10 years ago for< $500. and it was WAY better than this. This does not even have any kind of bias kit installed.

Poppa Fuse wrote:Near and dear to many of our hearts is Dynaco's ST35. Here is an example by 'The Maestro.' http://www.ebay.com/itm/Dynaco-ST-35-audiophile-quality-upgraded-parts-chassis-cage-/191735380866

I'm seeing this guy as Mark Metcalf's character from the episode of Seinfeld. O Mio Babbino Caro.

He has some nice parts but.... First thing I notice is the power transformer is backwards. The heater wires should come out toward the back and cross the output transformer secondary wires at a 90 degree angle, not parallel them. What is up with the 'white glob'? Is it adhesive tape? Is this R11? What is the brown resistor at the end of the white glob? Is this mess floating or attached to the chassis? Is the large black power resistor [R12?] floating? Why so many splices? For $1,000.00 I would expect wires that are the correct length.

I sent this guy a message and tried to be gentle but no reply so far. If this sells for a grand I'm selling mine for $10K.

I wouldn't pay $250 for that one , that white blob is sure to catch fire sometime

From the eBay ad, first paragraph of the description:

"I’ve been repairing and rebuilding Dynaco tube amplifiers for 30 years and this is one of my best efforts yet."

One wonders what the earlier Maestros might look like.

He replied, told me to mind my own business. So I warned him about setting someone's house on fire. Ehh.. what can you do?

This could be a good amp with a little work. First thing I'd do is rotate the power transformer 180 degrees and re-dress the heater leads. He's drilled a hole through the chassis next to the multi-cap to mount the fuse. You can see the screw top and nut sticking out. I'd get rid of that and put the old fuse holder back without a switch. Or maybe remount the switch on the front. The 'taped white bandage bundle' appears to be C8D/R13 (two 47ohms 25 watt sand resistors in series and C8D in parallel?) The yellow lead from the bundle seems to go the the 6bq5 cathodes. I would mount a terminal strip to the chassis stiffener for one 100 ohm 10 watt sand resistor in parallel with a good axial 100 uf cap. I have no idea what the brown resistor coming out of the bundle is, or does and doubt it is useful. The big black power resistor, assuming it's R11, would get a terminal strip on the other chassis stiffener. And get rid of all the unnecessary splices! Then maybe he wouldn't need the clownish snake oil description.

Yep, met a couple builders like that. I disavow them totally.

They give us boutique guys a really bad name

Yike!! That's kind of scary!

Are those black and yellow wires on the circuit boards supposed to be twisted pairs for the heaters? If so, he and I have vastly different opinions on what 'twisted pair' means...

-Pat

Mr Fuse:

Your dialog with the Maestro may have had a favourable effect after all. Check out his latest pics - the blob of tape is gone! I wonder if that counts as an upgrade ;-)

Well done Poppa. You may have saved someone from a fiery end.

http://www.ebay.com/itm/191735380866?_trksid=p2055119.m1438.l2649&ssPageName=STRK%3AMEBIDX%3AIT

The Dale power resistor, if properly mounted to the chassis, with a little heatsink grease, should run fairly cool. The original ST35 shared cathode resistor was 95 ohms, 5 Watts.

/ed B