H. H. Scott and Fisher

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I am looking for a sweet sounding integrated amp to restore and I was looking and some Scotts and Fishers. I think I would like the Scott 299, since it uses EL84s and looks much like the SCA-35 (which inspired which, I wonder). Anyone listen to it before? Also, what integrated Fisher tube amps are popular? Thanks!

[TerrySmith]

I just finished a gut and rebuild of a really clean Heathkit AA-151. These are high quality and NO CIRCUIT BOARDS!
Modifications:

The phono stage has been removed.

The 6AU6 pentode stage now uses a 6AT6 or 6AV6 triode, socket rewired and screen circuits removed.

For the 6AN8 VA-PI, a similar circuit to a K502, triode gain stage and cathodyne PI wired for a 9A based tube.

I've removed the tone PEC's and used individual components. This made a huge difference in sound!

I'll try to post pics this weekend.

[EWBrown]

I'm in process (still....) of an AA-151 total makeover, into a basic power amp, no preamps, tone stacks, etc.... I retained the original power trannie and output iron, and stripped EVERYTHING else out. At present, the power upply has been rebuilt (and re-designed) and the power output sections are completed. In order to facilitate this, I found it best to rotate the OPTs by 180 degrees, so that the primary leads come out closest to the EL84s. The original layout had them "backwards". I brought out the speaker leads to where the original input jacks were located, and the new inputs will be on the front, as will the power seitch and (perhaps) volume control.

This AA-151 was a low-buck "parts donor" from the beginning, it was missing most of the tubes (except the Amperex GZ34 and some of teh small signal tubes "up front", and the innards were semi-hacked, whether by the original builder, or by someone else in between. It looked like a cross-eyed, crack-addicted chimp had done its "finest" handiwork to it Yellow_Light_Colorz_PDT_04 The front panel and top cover were also pretty nasty looking...

I was planning to use two Poseidon boards, set up for MK4 duty, for the drivers / phase splitters, but that would be a serious "overkill", as they have far more gain and capability than is required. I'll probably gin up a "circuit clone" of the DIY35 driver section, using one 12AX7 0r 5751, and one 12AU7 or 12BH7A.

That way, everything will be point to point wiring.

Yep, another of my infamous "almost completed projects"...

Then I still have two other AA-151s, one was very nicely refurbished by the original owner, who sold it to me for a very reasonable low price, and the other is a yard sale / flea market "foundling" which looks to be in decent shape, though I have never applied AC power to it. .

/ed B

[joeriz]

I used to have a Scott 222-C (very similar to the 299's that use EL-84s). It was a very nice-sounding amp.

I actually had it at the same time as my SCA-35 (which I still own) and did some side-by-side comparisons. When the tone controls on the SCA-35 were still in circuit, the Scott was the winner overall although it wasn't what I would call night and day...but the Scott was clearly better. Once the tone controls on the SCA-35 were out of circuit (I installed a mod to enable the filter switch to act as a tone bypass) it was more or less a toss up to me. However, the Scott still had slightly 'better' bass. It seemed to be slightly more visceral and go just slightly deeper than the SCA-35. Just a little more oomph...

I would up keeping the Dyna mainly because it was for my bedroom system and is easier to work on than the Scott. Ever look underneath one of those things? Not a simple rebuild with that point-to-point jungle under there...

Hope that helps.

Joe

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Thanks, Joe. That was very informative. I am not looking for anything to do any major mods on. I want to keep it as it is. I might just recap and do other housekeeping stuff. Sounds like the Scott might be worth a look. Everything I hear about the amp is positive so far. I also like the fact that 299s are point-to-point wired.

[crispycircuit]

I have worked on many integreteds for my friend to sell on Ebay. The Scott's are the absolute best, then Stromberg Carlson, Fisher, Eico, Dyna, Heath is at the bottom of the list. This is just my opinion but I have worked/repaired and listened to these amp and inspected the quality. If you look for a Scott, find one that has the DC heater supply. Most do but some don't. These models get the DC from the cathode of the power tubes and you have to run the outputs hot. It also takes longer for the whole amp to come alive/warm up. I actually like tone controls of the Scott amps. They help contour the sound of poor recordings and can boost the bass for mini speaker for a wonderful full sound. I use Audio Nivana Super 8s full range speakers and enjoy the Scott tone controls. Scott hold their value. Just one more opinion.... Have fun Shopping...

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Thanks for the additional info. BTW, what's the difference between 299, 299B, LK-48, and LK-48B?

[Ty_Bower]

I once had an email conversation with a John Barkoot (went by the handle 7189a) back in December of 2000. He had this to say about the Scott integrateds. I hope he doesn't mind me quoting him here.

If you ever want to get a great 24wpc amp I fully recommend the Scott LK-48B. A
primitive rule, roughly right, is that it takes 4 times the electrical power to
sound 2 times as loud. This is a rough measurement but it places 24wpc nicely
alongside of 7591/7868 systems that put out 33-40wps. But sound is much more
that muscle. Its tubes are 6bq5/5ar4/12ax7/6u8, almost all of which are being
made today (not the 6u8 but it is abundant and cheap in NOS). This lineup is
also so regular that one can swap out their favorite choice for sound and
performance tweeking. There is an earlier LK-48 but my reasons for the B are
indicated. The LK amps were sold as a kits so the one possible drawback is the
ability of the original builder. The 48B went with the frontal and chassis
configuration of their production 233 (33wpc but with obsolete 7591 tubes). It
is close to the 222D if you want the factory built equal. It has the refined
attributes of the high point of mid 60's tube equipment. I listen mostly with
headphones and it has a jack and good wiring to back it up.

[dcriner]

I re-did a Scott 222D. Sounds fine.

[rca7591a]

[quote="crispycircuit"]I have worked on many integreteds for my friend to sell on Ebay. The Scott's are the absolute best, then Stromberg Carlson, Fisher, Eico, Dyna, Heath is at the bottom of the list.

I recapped a Scott 299. I like the amp...

Fisher? Bottom of the list... Have you ever gave a Fisher X202B a listen?
How about a Fisher 500C? Most who own both brands, Scott and Fisher
have difficulty favoring one over the other.

I know I do.

[TomMcNally]

I think you misread the list ... Fisher was # 3

[rca7591a]

I think you misread the list ... Fisher was # 3

Oops! I guess I did.
I'm at work... Supposed to be working... Lurking while wurking...

[crispycircuit]

You are correct Fisher is very nice. My only beef with the Fisher gear is trying to find replacement parts. Switches, pots, etc..... Fisher also has nice tone controls..... If your gonna disconnect the tone controls, then I'd just build a power amp with volume pots......

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I just won what appears to be a pretty clean (or good photography of) LK-48B on eBay (http://cgi.ebay.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&rd=1&item=110244139429&ssPageName=STRK:MEWA:IT&ih=001).
Upon doing some research on the web, the LK-48B is essentially a kit version of the 222C. I hope that the builder did a good job on it. I am also glad that it's a kit version. This ought to make replacing can caps and other components (if needed) easy. Anyway, thank you all for your info. It helped with the purchase.

[erichayes]

I mentioned this in an earlier thread, but it's worth repeating for the first time rebuilder.

Gold face Scotts were notorious for having all their multi-section electrolytic caps dry out and open up. Of the dozen or so I've rebuilt for customers in the last 10 years, I've had to replace every section with a discrete cap, including the little low voltage quad used in the bias/DC heater supply (replace the FWB bias/heater rectifier as well, just for drill). They can't be reformed, because there's no electrolyte left to reform.

Fortunately, today's axial lead caps are physically small enough to be able to shoehorn in under the chassis and leave the dead soldiers in place on the chassis. IIRC, that's a total of ten to twelve caps. Although I've never seen it, it's possible that there might be a section in the can(s) that's good. Don't be tempted not to replace it--it's only a matter of time before it, too, fails.

Coupling caps to the output tubes should be replaced without second thought. Output tube screen resistors should be checked for correct value if the output tubes aren't original (or even if they are, for that matter; original 299C output tubes were Telefunken 7189s, BTW).

I've quit rebuilding gold faced Scotts for customers because it's cost prohibitive for me--if I charged for actual time, the labor fee, alone, would be over $300.00. As a hobbyist pursuit, however, they can be satisfying projects.