Nice afternoon project - Budgie by the Book

[TomMcNally]

I build my Budgie Preamp "by the book" with the suggested parts, no mods, like the designer intended. Sweet ! Great sound and cool look and functions.
Aim any remote at it and it learns your buttons. Erase and start over if you don't like them. Bass Boost makes it sound as good or better than my Adcom.
Mute button is great if an annoying phone call comes in while listening to music loudly.

[lmaynard]

Looks great Tom. Will you be posting any construction tips or software loading of the Nano? I'm sure it would help lots of builders and me for sure?
lmaynard

[Shannon Parks]

Looks great Tom. Will you be posting any construction tips or software loading of the Nano? I'm sure it would help lots of builders and me for sure?
lmaynard

I'll be working on adding a lot of this over the next few weeks. I need to make sure all the FAQs are addressed before the audioXpress article comes out (now pushed to July).

Tom - what's the part number on the red buttons? Nice contrast! And do you still need a knob? I have a few more.

Shannon

[TomMcNally]

The board is an easy build, make sure you put the tube sockets and the volume pot assembly on the
correct side of the board ... mistakes there would be difficult. Otherwise, it's easy. Download
the code from here, and follow the links for the Arduino setup. Until Shannon updates the docs,
be sure to read all of the posts and take notes ! He mentions the IR setup library, do that.
Measure the three holes in the chassis carefully, they need to line up exactly so the "light pipes"
can bring the RED led light out, and allow remote IR in. I found that my local Ace hardware store
had some nice black #6 sheet metal screws to hold the panel to the chassis. I use aluminum
"rivnuts" on amps, but they aren't approriate when you want a tight flush fit.
Also, I don't think the power switch is on the Mouser BOM, so you 'll need to find one.
I had one from an old computer power supply, so I lucked out, but I don't have a part number.

I found that I had a bad USB cable, so my computer didn't recognize the Arduino. Once I figured
that out, it was smooth sailing. Look through the code for hints on what the buttons do.

Shannon - the red buttons are part # 10KB011 .... lots left, no black. I think the red look nice.

I got my shipment of knobs yesterday (hence the pictures) thanks !

[jwhitmor]

Are we throwing out the insulating washers for the RCA jacks? They all share a common ground, and the look is a bit more refined without the insulators. Not sure if that would introduce any noise, but my guess is it would not. What is the advice from the completed builds?

[TomMcNally]

Somewhere in the manual Shannon says not to use the insulators.
He sent me like 300 to recycle for him.

[jwhitmor]

Thanks Tom,
I could not be sure from looking at the photos, but I did not see any, and the spacing looked too tight for the washers that came with my RCA jacks. To use them, I would probably have to trim them, and as I said, it looks more refined without them. Just did not want to cause a problem by leaving them out, if they were really needed.

I think you got a better manual than I did.

[Shannon Parks]

With my Budgie black & gold PCB manufactured top plates, I leave all the RCA holes isolated. No plastic washer to loosen the fitting. But if one used Front Panel Express or DIY'd an aluminum top plate, those washers are a must.

Shannon

[jwhitmor]

If I understand correctly, the Parks Audio manufactured top plates are a non-conductive composite (like glass fiber/epoxy) with a metalic layer bonded to it, similar to copper clad PCB material. Where the RCA jacks mount, the metal has been removed to provide isolation. (Hope this is not a trade secret).
On a conductive top, (like the Hammond enclosure steel top) you need the washers. Bottom line, the RCA jacks must be isolated in some reliable way.

[Shannon Parks]

If I understand correctly, the Parks Audio manufactured top plates are a non-conductive composite (like glass fiber/epoxy) with a metalic layer bonded to it, similar to copper clad PCB material. Where the RCA jacks mount, the metal has been removed to provide isolation. (Hope this is not a trade secret).
On a conductive top, (like the Hammond enclosure steel top) you need the washers. Bottom line, the RCA jacks must be isolated in some reliable way.

You are 100% correct, Jim.

Shannon

[Ludwig]

If I understand correctly, the Parks Audio manufactured top plates are a non-conductive composite (like glass fiber/epoxy) with a metalic layer bonded to it, similar to copper clad PCB material. Where the RCA jacks mount, the metal has been removed to provide isolation.

Ok, I've left my plastic insulating washers off the top plate like in the photos - but what about the DC socket?
I notice that with a continuity tester the ground/shield of the RCA sockets is connected to the ground/shield of the DC power socket - is this correct?

I am getting a nasty hum when I connect the preamp to a power amp without a source (cd player / DAC). Is anyone else finding the same?

[Shannon Parks]

If I understand correctly, the Parks Audio manufactured top plates are a non-conductive composite (like glass fiber/epoxy) with a metalic layer bonded to it, similar to copper clad PCB material. Where the RCA jacks mount, the metal has been removed to provide isolation.

Ok, I've left my plastic insulating washers off the top plate like in the photos - but what about the DC socket?
I notice that with a continuity tester the ground/shield of the RCA sockets is connected to the ground/shield of the DC power socket - is this correct?

I am getting a nasty hum when I connect the preamp to a power amp without a source (cd player / DAC). Is anyone else finding the same?

You need an earth grounded supply with the Budgie Preamp, Ludwig. What model supply are you using?

Shannon

[Ludwig]

Indeed! I was using a 24v laptop supply (two pin mains), but found a three pin grounded 24v supply in my junk box and voila, the noise is gone!! What a great sounding amp!