diytube.com

Ground scheme understood.
I have my chassis finished and parts installed/temporary installed -need to finish PCB next and mount in chassis.
Getting back to previous input question - RCA and 3.5 mm input - Is a source selector necessary? If not, can I wire 3.5 mm to RCA's then pot or should both be wired to pot separately?
Thanks

MacL wrote:Getting back to previous input question - RCA and 3.5 mm input - Is a source selector necessary? If not, can I wire 3.5 mm to RCA's then pot or should both be wired to pot separately?

You can certainly wire them together, and then just manually use one input at a time (removing the other input). If you plan to drill a hole on the back side of the chassis, you'll want the ground to be isolated from the chassis to prevent ground loops. Use this 3.5mm jack that uses a plastic housing:
http://www.mouser.com/ProductDetail/Kob ... SQs9Hq7w==
Note that it uses a double-D hole, but I think you can get by with a standard hole (and epoxy if needed).

Shannon

jollyrogr wrote:Very cool. What tubes does everyone recommend? There's quite a few choices for all about the same price. JJ, Sovtek, new production Mullards, EH, etc. Any favorites?

I love this little amplifier, it is a keeper. I might buy a spare set of tubes for the moment that these eventually wear out. (but I am not expecting it to be any time soon - perhaps 5 or 10 years down the track).

I had the EL84 Mullard new issue and the Tungsol new issue next to each other and could not see a difference between them. The Mullard's went away with another small amplifier I had.

With the feedback it should not make much difference. I like a higher spec'd 12AX7 and bought the Tungsol ECC803S. I'll be ordering the same lot again.

The biggest impact will be by what speakers you are going to be using. At the moment I am building some cabinets for some Fostex FE127e and I have some Fostex FE167e arriving soon. Have not decided on a cabinet for the latter yet, still looking for something.

AmadeusMozart wrote:I love this little amplifier, it is a keeper. I might buy a spare set of tubes for the moment that these eventually wear out. (but I am not expecting it to be any time soon - perhaps 5 or 10 years down the track).

Me too! Thanks for the feedback.

I just ordered boards for an updated Budgie SE this past Friday. The main PCB just has better markings and switched to Euro connectors all around (no MPC-II headers). The new top plate is going to make it a super easy build. Hopefully it will be the basis of future magazine article.

Shannon

Hey Shannon, I have my board ordered and I am starting to compile my list of parts to order. I have a brand new PT in a box still and was hoping I can use it. Its a Hammond 290CAX: 275-0-275, 550vct@ 115ma, 6.3v@2amps, 5v@2amps. I want to use my NOS Tungsol 5y3gt for this as well. Any chance can use these?

lego4040 wrote:Hey Shannon, I have my board ordered and I am starting to compile my list of parts to order. I have a brand new PT in a box still and was hoping I can use it. Its a Hammond 290CAX: 275-0-275, 550vct@ 115ma, 6.3v@2amps, 5v@2amps. I want to use my NOS Tungsol 5y3gt for this as well. Any chance can use these?

That Hammond will work fine. B+ will be 10% higher, but I have the EL84s biased conservatively so you shouldn't need to change the cathode bias resistors - plug and play. Maybe post your voltages after you are done and I'll double-check it all.

Switching to a 5Y3GT will work OK. Jumper D1 & D2 and change C11 to 33uF, 450V to prevent rectifier damage. This will raise the noise floor, though, due to less 120Hz ripple filtering. I probably wouldn't advise this mod if you want to use headphones.

Best of luck!

Shannon

Good Morning Shannon, I have a question. On your scematic for the Budgie you show 100uf for C9&10 but the BOM says 470uf. Is it safe to say its 470ohm. Thanks, Im hoping to get some parts ordered today

lego4040 wrote:Good Morning Shannon, I have a question. On your scematic for the Budgie you show 100uf for C9&10 but the BOM says 470uf. Is it safe to say its 470ohm. Thanks, Im hoping to get some parts ordered today

Parts list is correct - so go with 470uF. My parts lists usually supercede my schematics, as they are just easier to update, control and verify. Thanks for the catch.

Shannon

Shannon I see some differences from BOM and schematic.
C14 on schematic is 120uf and BOM is 22uf
C9&10 is 100uf on schematic and 470uf in the BOM
R17 &18 is 240ohm/1 watt on schematic and 240ohm/2watt on BOM
I ordered and installed the 22uf for C14, 470uf for C 9&10, but I ordered the 240ohm/1watt for R17&18. Can I use the 240ohm/1watt or should I get the 2 watt
Will post some pics of the progress

lego4040 wrote:Shannon I see some differences from BOM and schematic.
C14 on schematic is 120uf and BOM is 22uf
C9&10 is 100uf on schematic and 470uf in the BOM
R17 &18 is 240ohm/1 watt on schematic and 240ohm/2watt on BOM
I ordered and installed the 22uf for C14, 470uf for C 9&10, but I ordered the 240ohm/1watt for R17&18. Can I use the 240ohm/1watt or should I get the 2 watt
Will post some pics of the progress

Thanks for noting these, and the new (not uploaded yet) schematic has the caps fixed. The 240 ohm, 1W resistors will be A-OK - dissipation is 0.3W. There's just a newer line of 2W resistors that I like and have been using.

Shannon

Hi Shannon

I'm interested in building Budgie SE. I could not find the BOM and schematic/instruction links
Could you point the link please

Thank you very much
Hariman

adinoto wrote:Hi Shannon

I'm interested in building Budgie SE. I could not find the BOM and schematic/instruction links
Could you point the link please

Thank you very much
Hariman

Hi Hariman,

Here's the PDF manual (schematics and parts list for the old red PCB design):
http://www.diytube.com/budgiese/budgieSEmanual.pdf

But I'm changing over to the Rev A docs and I should have them up sometime next week. Making sure all the BOMs and schematics are perfect. It's my top priority post holiday rush.

Shannon

Shannon

Thanks for the link.
A couple of queries :
- The power trans (EDCOR XPWR136) has 250-0-250 V rated at 60mA. The Budgie SE seems to draw more than 60mA (around 70-75mA if my calc correct). Wouldn't the current draw too much for the transformer?
- Does Rev A chassis plate still use top mounted shrouded GXSE transformer? I like the look and colour of blue Edcor transformer

Thanks a lot

adinoto wrote:Shannon

Thanks for the link.
A couple of queries :
- The power trans (EDCOR XPWR136) has 250-0-250 V rated at 60mA. The Budgie SE seems to draw more than 60mA (around 70-75mA if my calc correct). Wouldn't the current draw too much for the transformer?
- Does Rev A chassis plate still use top mounted shrouded GXSE transformer? I like the look and colour of blue Edcor transformer

Thanks a lot

The power transformer operates around +10% calculated spec, which is rated per an industrial temp rise (eg 60C, 80C, etc) over ambient. So not a problem as it is in the plus/minus operating ballpark and temperature tests (open air) run at around 54C (an easy 30C temp rise over ambient).

The Rev A supports the open frame, hide-under-chassis type OPTs. I'll try to include a sample Front Panel Express file for those wishing to use other outputs.

Shannon