diytube.com

Right now, I'm using a Neutrik stereo jack, part# NMJ6HC-S. The shorting connectors aren't needed in the Budgie design so I just clipped them off. Sadly, this uses a round chassis hole with no locking mechanism, so it rotates easily (and the outputs could short out against the chassis). I finally used two star washers on the inside and cranked down the threaded outside nut. This seems secure, but am I missing something? Would a stereo mini jack be a design faux pas?

Anyone have a nice, small chassis mount fuse holder to recommend? I am currently using a Littlefuse holder. I went with a 5x20mm model hoping for a smaller holder, but it just has a larger spacer spring inside so that they can use either fuse size. All the holders seem to be like this - semi-intelligent engineering, but not space efficient.

Shannon

I used this headphone jack for my last amp. Price is bit high but it performs and is screw mounted so it won't move.

http://www.neutrik.com/en/audio/plugs-a ... j3fp6c-bag

That looks great, kku. Thanks for the recommendation. Sadly, it's too large for the Budgie SE, but can be used in a larger chassis. With the two screws, it ain't going anywhere!

Shannon

$5.50 for a pro jack is expensive?

http://www.parts-express.com/pe/showdet ... j3fp6c-bag

Shannon, use one of them IEC sockets with the built-in holder

Oh, and a rubber washer cures the headphone jack rotation.

Cheers!

Geek wrote:Shannon, use one of them IEC sockets with the built-in holder

This was indeed my original plan and we use them all the time at work, but once again, it takes up too much space when using the top plate design. That doesn't prevent anyone from cutting a hole in the back and slipping in the IEC connector of their choice, though, and the old fuse hole can be filled with a plastic plug.

Rubber washers, eh? Thanks for the tip!

Shannon

I've used this one before. It's a tad smaller...

http://www.mouser.com/Search/ProductDet ... -R3-12-GRX

Thanks for the rec, Tom. I think I've decided on a similar fuse holder also by Eagle:
Datasheet and Mouser Link

It has a low profile, a right angle bottom lug (needed for the shallow 2" clearance) and supports .187" fastons. Should be perfect, though I need to order one tomorrow to be assured of the direction of the right angle lug and the orientation of the D-hole.

I think I will switch to this Neutrik 1/4" jack:
http://www.rean-connectors.com/NYS2343

Slightly smaller footprint under the chassis, but more importantly there aren't huge lugs that can short out against a chassis screw.

Shannon

The first 1/4" M-Series Neutrik that you linked is super common for headphone amps, it's pretty tried and tested and makes a nice solid connection. The locking 1/4" that kku linked is my personal favorite, I plan on blind-mounting one on my GSG.

I've actually never seen the NYS2343 being used. You may want to give it a good stress test before settling on it. The general rule of thumb is that home headphone amps have 1/4", portable amps use 1/8" and desktop amps could have either or both. The Budgie SE size is what I would consider a "home" amp, so 1/4" is ideal.

separks wrote:I think I will switch to this Neutrik 1/4" jack:
http://www.rean-connectors.com/NYS2343

Switchcraft still makes most of it's nickel plated jacks and plugs in Chicago.
http://www.switchcraft.com/Category.aspx?Parent=3
http://www.switchcraft.com/Category.aspx?Parent=988

Some of their gold plated stuff is outsourced to Taiwan.

Brad

Thanks, Brad - that looks like an identical solution. I'll get one and check it out.

Shannon