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PostPosted: Sun Aug 12, 2012 7:25 pm
by EWBrown
I'm lovin' it too, three, four....

[:) ;) (lol)

/ed B

mysterious object

PostPosted: Mon Aug 13, 2012 6:12 pm
by leadtower
Is this a new circuit? Or a re-worked budgie board? I have to pay more attention; sheesh!

PostPosted: Mon Aug 13, 2012 9:24 pm
by brians7
Shannon can you post a Budgie SE schematic to it for (RH84)? Of coarse when you get the time. Thanks Brian

Re: mysterious object

PostPosted: Tue Aug 14, 2012 5:29 am
by Shannon Parks
leadtower wrote:Is this a new circuit? Or a re-worked budgie board? I have to pay more attention; sheesh!


New board. Making a Budgie family and this is the amp portion. The Budgie family characteristic will be the flipped upside Hammond chassis with a pre-drilled chassis top plate to facilitate easy construction.

Shannon

PostPosted: Tue Aug 14, 2012 5:40 am
by Shannon Parks
brians7 wrote:Shannon can you post a Budgie SE schematic to it for (RH84)? Of coarse when you get the time. Thanks Brian


I presume someone will do this before I get a chance to, but the mod will be pretty simple.

I still question the series feedback method for a triode VA (RDH3 bottom page 41) after not having success with an early Clementine prototype using it.

Shannon

exellamente'!

PostPosted: Tue Aug 14, 2012 9:34 am
by leadtower
We can place orders now?

PostPosted: Tue Aug 14, 2012 12:07 pm
by Shannon Parks
Not yet, but very soon. I'll take orders by the end of the month and should have the top plates. Budgie SE amp boards will be $39, and the top plates will probably be $49.

It's configured for the Edcor XPWR136-120 for the power transformer and two Edcor GXSE10-8-5K as the outputs. I guess you can go ahead and order, as you'll have a 5 or 6 week wait from Edcor. Those are just under $100 shipped.

Shannon

Roger That

PostPosted: Tue Aug 14, 2012 3:04 pm
by leadtower
Thanks Shannon; I'll do that.

PostPosted: Thu Aug 16, 2012 9:35 pm
by EWBrown
For RH84 implementation, just connect a 470K resistor between the 6BQ5 plate (pin 7) and the 12AX7's plate, for each channel,
that should be easy to do this, on the solder side of the board.

Try RH84 mode with, and without, the global NFB, it may surprise you - I did this with a mini-sized 6BM8 / Russian 6F3P SE amp ,
and the combined NFB made it sound even better than the standard "OPT secondary, thru a resistor back to to VA cathode" NFB scheme.

HTH

/ed B in NC

PostPosted: Fri Aug 17, 2012 6:12 am
by TerrySmith
Does this have enough gain to use standalone or is a preamp needed?

PostPosted: Fri Aug 17, 2012 8:59 am
by Shannon Parks
TerrySmith wrote:Does this have enough gain to use standalone or is a preamp needed?


It doesn't need a preamp. 500mV will drive it to 3W, so any device - like a smartphone or music player or even the Budgie phono - works fine. It was a key design consideration.

Shannon

PostPosted: Wed Aug 22, 2012 10:17 am
by soundbrigade
We are coming (or going) to Chicago for X-mas. Maybe I hire a car and come down (or up= to you and pick up a card or two or more.
I can make a notification on the Swedish forums and offer guys a groupsex ... group-buy , mean. :$

PostPosted: Wed Aug 22, 2012 2:31 pm
by Shannon Parks
soundbrigade wrote:We are coming (or going) to Chicago for X-mas. Maybe I hire a car and come down (or up= to you and pick up a card or two or more.
I can make a notification on the Swedish forums and offer guys a groupsex ... group-buy , mean. :$


Sounds cool!

Shannon

PostPosted: Thu Nov 01, 2012 7:27 pm
by EWBrown
It's alive!!!!!

I just completed my SE Budgie build, ran the DC voltage checks - all were within 1% of the voltages show non the schematic.

Tubes installed are J/J; 2 EL84s and 1 ECC803 (fancy 12AX7A).

Hooked it up to the test setup CD player and speakers, and it sounds very nice! [:) (love) [:)

Only changes I did were to use a Hammond 156R (similar to C354) choke, and I decided not to install the 4 20 ohm resistors and headphone jack, in its place,
I installed a power-on LED, and aded a couple of 1N4007s (connected to 6.3V A & B, a 180 ohm resistor and 47 uF / 16V cap to light it up).

I just need to find a better looking knob for the volume control, right now it's just an old gray plastic "Heathkit" knob, scavenged from some 50 year old dead Heathkit device. :/

Image

/ed B

PostPosted: Thu Nov 01, 2012 9:36 pm
by jollyrogr
Cool! Can't wait to see the pics. My pcb's just arrived today so I'm revved up to get started. So you used the heater voltage to light up your power LED?

I haven't ordered any tubes yet but I think I will use JJ ECC803 and the Sovtek EL84M's

What are you using for speakers?