I Like Ike

a DIY, modified Mullard 5-20 monoblock design

Getting closer...

Postby EWBrown » Mon Jan 26, 2004 7:06 am

I have the 2 Ike boards nearly completed, do have all parts on hand, and the iron, chassis, etc, so they should be up and running within the next wek or two, as free time allows. For starters, I have 4 used but still good Svetlana 6550Cs, Russian "generic" 6H8C (6SN7 equivalents) and NOS US 12AX7s. Eventually I'll go with KT88s or KT90s and NOS 6SN7s.

It's been a busy winter so far, down in the "monster cellar".

/ed brown in NH
Real Radios Glow in the Dark
User avatar
EWBrown
Insulator & Iron Magnate
 
Posts: 6389
Joined: Wed Mar 19, 2003 6:03 am
Location: Now located in Clay County, NC !

Postby nineno » Mon Jan 26, 2004 7:28 pm

Alright, I'm all moved in to my new house (sort-of) and I think I'm ready to plunge into IKE building.

However, would it be possible to get a copy of the BOM/parts list before I order my boards? I'd like to figure out (as close as possible) how much these fellas are going to cost.

I think I'll be building an auto-biased amp.......but i'm always suspect to change my mind. While I want to maximize my output power (to compensate for my not-ultra-high-efficency speakers) I also like the idea of just letting the amp correct for itself. I' know there's another thread dedicated to this, so i'll read-up on that one and see if i'm swayed one way or the other.

Also, are there and early suggestions on "stock part" substitutions? I built my ST-35 almost to the letter of the provided manual, and i'm very happy with it as it is (I can't stress that enough). But, with these bigger, more powerful, and ever-so-slightly more expensive amps I might not mind throwing some money at some trick parts. Obviously, most of my interest will be held by the signal path components, but i'll surely consider and listen to any other suggetions people have. Thanks as always DIYers!
drew*
nineno
 
Posts: 117
Joined: Sat Aug 02, 2003 10:59 pm

stay tuned

Postby Shannon Parks » Tue Jan 27, 2004 7:14 am

nineno wrote:However, would it be possible to get a copy of the BOM/parts list before I order my boards? I'd like to figure out (as close as possible) how much these fellas are going to cost.


drew*,

I'll put up the manual (along with parts list) as soon as I officially release them. I've sold a handful and just now am getting precious feedback from these gents. Stay tuned!

Shannon
User avatar
Shannon Parks
Site Admin
 
Posts: 3764
Joined: Tue Mar 18, 2003 5:40 pm
Location: Poulsbo, Washington

Re: Any ballpark price on the board/manual etc. ?

Postby Shannon Parks » Fri Jan 30, 2004 10:54 pm

mg16 wrote:Hi Shannon,
Can you give us a ballpark figure on what the charges will be for a pair of Eicoclone boards with manual.
Any parts included?
Just wondering so I can set aside the dough.
Thanks,
mg16


The vanguard units (four pairs) were sold at $89 for a pair on Ebay over the last month, which included two Eiclone PCBs and a hearty manual. I'm actually providing fully separate parts lists, schematics and assembly drawings of the cathode bias version and fixed bias version in the same manual, so it's already thicker than the ST35 manual.

BTW, thanks for your and Laudanum's kind words over at AudioAsylum. I fully respect the SET heads, and plan to fiddle with SETs in the future, but doggone, how is someone going to get gut thumping dynamics in classical with 3 watts? I mean, the Ikes can do things, dynamically speaking, that an ST35 can't do and they're at 15 watts (and I have horns). Apples and oranges, I say.

Shannon
User avatar
Shannon Parks
Site Admin
 
Posts: 3764
Joined: Tue Mar 18, 2003 5:40 pm
Location: Poulsbo, Washington

Re: EICOCLONE

Postby Shannon Parks » Sat Jan 31, 2004 9:28 am

mg16 wrote:Will we be able to buy the Eicoclone package at this site, or only at Ebay?
Thanks,
mg16


MG16,
A simple shopping cart should come up on the website soon, paired with the official Eiclone launch. I'll make Paypal, MOs and personal checks the payment options.

Shannon
User avatar
Shannon Parks
Site Admin
 
Posts: 3764
Joined: Tue Mar 18, 2003 5:40 pm
Location: Poulsbo, Washington

Postby nineno » Sat Feb 07, 2004 3:42 pm

Well in preperation for the forth-coming IE Clone release I went down to the local electronic surplus store to see what interesting things I could find that might be of use to me.

Overall, the shopping trip was not particularly fruitful, but I did get two 3Amp EMI filters made by Potter in Wesson Mississippi and a few nice little toggle switches.

The EMI filters were $1.75 each. I've seen them in Mouser catalogs and almost bought a mains plug receptical with one built into it when i was building my ST-35 several months back. Then I decided not to merely because i didn't really know what an EMI filter was or what precisely it did.

SO i ask you fine gents: What is an EMI filter? I sortof supposed it was like a band-pass filter that just lets 60Hz pass...is that even close?

Regardless of its actual function, would it be wise to have one between the mains and the powertransformer of an amplifier, in this case an Ike?

Finally, if an EMI filter would be a good thing to put in an amplifier, is a 3 amp rating enough, or does a single Ike pull more than three amps (assuming a relatively stock build with solid state rectification, etc)?

Other than those questions, I've begun laying out my chassis based on some of the preliminary information posted to the site. I think my baseplate will be 9"x14" made from 10 or 12Ga. aluminum. I'll probably make another wooden chassis that the aluminum plate will sit flush down inside like my St-35. I think i might get each base plate anodized; one red and one blue for each channel, or make the bases out of some exotic woods like bloodwood and blue ash which are obviously red and blue respectively.

I've also figured out a neat little bootstrapping switch/relay configuration to power the amp up. I would like to have three little momentary toggles on the from panel, each with a single LED above it. The first toggle shuts everyhting off, and the red LED above it would be on. In essance, the LED would be the only thing on. Click the second swich and the amp warms, just like the ST-35 warm circuit....here the red LED would be off, and an amber LED would come on. Finally, the third momentary toggle would turn the HV on to the plates. Then if you wanted you clould click the second toggle again to go back to warming (if you're going to be away from the amp for a few minutes or something, or between CDs/LPs). To shut it off all the way just click the first toggle again.

It's a little overkill....or maybe a lot of overkill, but i think it would look neat. :wink:

Just theories right now.

Thanks again for your help/input.

drew*
nineno
 
Posts: 117
Joined: Sat Aug 02, 2003 10:59 pm

Electro Magmetic Interference

Postby EWBrown » Sun Feb 08, 2004 1:53 pm

The EMI filters original purpose is to keep any signals, noise, etc from the unit being powered from being conducted out on to the line. In teh case of the DIY35, it doesn't produce undesirable signals or noise (no switching power supply, digital circuitry, oscillators, etc). At the same time, the EMI filter will prevent or reduce any incoming noise present on tehe power line from getting ino the amplifier, which can help keep the junk from fluorescent lights, light dimmers, aquarium heaters, computers, etc from sneaking in and causing low level background noise. Typically these filters are spec'ed to filter out 9 KHz to 30 MHz EMI noise. It has no effect on 60 (or 50) Hz power line voltage. Typically there are 3 or 4 capacitors and two inductors inside, perhaps a MOV to clip incoming sipkes.

I just like the filters with the integrated power entry and switch and fuse holder the best, saves drilling a couple more holes and some primary wiring.

/ed brown
Real Radios Glow in the Dark
User avatar
EWBrown
Insulator & Iron Magnate
 
Posts: 6389
Joined: Wed Mar 19, 2003 6:03 am
Location: Now located in Clay County, NC !

Previous

Return to eiclone

Who is online

Users browsing this forum: No registered users and 10 guests

cron