Clementine confusion

sweet & juicy SE amp for 1626 Darlings and the 6L6 family

Re: Clementine confusion

Postby croudyj » Fri Apr 22, 2016 5:39 pm

While you're waiting, Tom, I hope you don't mind if I pick your brains a bit more ;)

I'm a bit confused about the 19W thing mentioned for R18 and R19. I don't know how to work out what I need. I'm planning to order this 6L6 tube:

https://tubedepot.com/products/sovtek-5 ... acuum-tube

but it doesn't say what the plate dissipation is, so I don't know if I need 1.5k or 1.8k resistors. Is it the same as the maximum output power? How critical is this?

Also, could you tell me the length of the spacers you use when screwing the PCB to the chassis? I'm thinking about 3/4" but I'm not sure. I figured I'd just copy yours (lol)

Thanks,

John
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Re: Clementine confusion

Postby TomMcNally » Sat Apr 23, 2016 11:28 am

I just googled the 5881 - it's over 20 watts, so use the 1.5K's ... I think the 1.8K's are intended for old 6L6's. The idea is not to push old tubes too hard, but any new tubes will be fine with the 1.5K's.

The spacers are 1/2" ... they are in the Mouser chassis parts list for the get*set*go # 534-8414 (10) made by Keystone. You'll need 10 6-32 1/4" machine screws also. You can get them http://boltdepot.com also 10 small 6-32 nuts. You'll also need 8-32 3/8" for the transformers and choke (14 of them) as well as nuts. I like the K-Lock nuts https://www.boltdepot.com/Product-Details.aspx?product=12020 You don't have to buy full boxes ... they sell any quantity of anything. I just got an order the other day. You'll need (4) 4-40 1/4" machine screws and nuts for the tube sockets. Small nuts will fit inside the frame of the socket just right.

... tom
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Re: Clementine confusion

Postby croudyj » Sat Apr 23, 2016 6:06 pm

Thanks Tom, that's just the information I needed. I don't understand why I need 10 spacers though... I've checked the PCB over and over again and I can't see more than 6 holes. I can't even see 10 holes on the get*set*go board and yet it clearly says 10 spacers.
What am I missing? I know I can be pretty thick about this kind of stuff :$

I discovered Bolt Depot by accident yesterday. What a great site. I'm about to order everything I need including for stuff around the house like shelving. I wish I'd found them years ago. No more traipsing around Home Depot looking for the right screws.

The steel punch you recommended arrived today. I'm going to do some practising on scrap steel before I use it on the real chassis.

Thanks!

John
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Re: Clementine confusion

Postby TomMcNally » Sat Apr 23, 2016 6:31 pm

Just some Clementine Confusion on my part ... I just counted out 10 when I built a get*set*go and that number stuck in my mind. 6 is correct for the Clementine. Punch tips: use the pc board as a template, put dots in the 6 standoff holes and the 3 tube socket holes. center punch, work your way from small to what you need on the standoffs, and 3/8" for the Greenlee. Put the cutting side on the finished side of the chassis, and the wrench (spanner ?) on the inside of the chassis. I usually brace the chassis against my body and crank it until it pops. Keep the socket straight or your hole may be bent.

have fun !

... tom
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Re: Clementine confusion

Postby croudyj » Sun Apr 24, 2016 12:21 am

Hi Tom,

Thanks for the advice. You mentioned tube socket mounting holes; something I never even considered. The sockets I've been looking at don't have mounting holes built in. In your experience, do PCB-mount sockets always come with an optional chassis mounting bracket of some kind? This is the one I'm planning to order when I order the tubes at the same time:

https://tubedepot.com/products/8-pin-pc ... old-socket

It looks very similar to a few you recommended to someone in another thread.

John
Last edited by croudyj on Sun Apr 24, 2016 10:30 pm, edited 1 time in total.
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Re: Clementine confusion

Postby croudyj » Sun Apr 24, 2016 8:07 pm

In other news, I bought the Unibit and a piece of scrap steel and had a go at punching a tube socket hole. The result was not too bad but there are a couple of dents where the punch originally cut into the metal. This steel sheet is 16 gauge which is about twice as thick as the chassis will be, but I'm wondering why this happened. Could my punch be 'dull'? I bought it used after all. The other side of the hole is actually cleaner but a bit sharp and would probably need smoothing down.

hole.jpg
hole.jpg (69.14 KiB) Viewed 599 times


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Re: Clementine confusion

Postby Geek » Mon Apr 25, 2016 2:26 am

That's just life with punches.

In my punch kit, I have some brand new and some 50 years old. All holes are the same as yours.

Cheers!
-= Gregg =-
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Re: Clementine confusion

Postby TomMcNally » Mon Apr 25, 2016 7:55 am

John -

The sockets in your link are the ones you want. There is no need for mounting ears on the sockets themselves, as the board is very thick and stiff, the the spacers are the right length to pull the sockets up under the chassis for support. Another good reason to use the 1 1/16" punch, the holes are just right and the socket has no wiggle room. I haven't seen the distortion on the Hammond chassis like you show in the picture, as they are pretty thin. I had a helper/trainee put the punch together wrong and cause a little bending, but the tube bases cover it up.

Gregg - I have a few Greenlee punches in cardboard cans with metal screw on lids, they are probably older than 50 years ! The best containers are the cardboard boxes with the metal corners. The cutting oil helps preserve the box. (y)
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Re: Clementine confusion

Postby croudyj » Mon Apr 25, 2016 12:32 pm

Hi Geek -- thanks, I guess I'll just have to get over it. It might be OK when the chassis is thinner.

Tom: thanks. I got thrown by your mention of 4-40 screws for tube sockets. Where do these screws go then? I'm still a bit confused. But confused is my middle name -- ask my wife (and my boss).

John
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Re: Clementine confusion

Postby Geek » Mon Apr 25, 2016 1:05 pm

TomMcNally wrote:Gregg - I have a few Greenlee punches in cardboard cans with metal screw on lids, they are probably older than 50 years ! The best containers are the cardboard boxes with the metal corners.


That describes my set. Older? I wish they had dates on them! *)

Cheers!
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Re: Clementine confusion

Postby TomMcNally » Mon Apr 25, 2016 9:07 pm

I've got get*set*go amps on my mind ! They have two PC mounted sockets and two that mount on the chassis. Same hole size. Sorry for muddying the waters. The Clementine has three PC mounted Octals, as you know.
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Re: Clementine confusion

Postby croudyj » Tue Apr 26, 2016 1:04 am

Riiight... OK, no worries. I was wondering why you said four instead of six screws. The strange thing is, I can actually see socket screws on your Clementine chassis. Here's a clip:

clip.jpg
clip.jpg (25.8 KiB) Viewed 563 times


Anyway, as long as the PCB can support the pressure I can just forget all about it.

Thanks,

John
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Re: Clementine confusion

Postby TomMcNally » Tue Apr 26, 2016 9:13 am

That looks like the 6LU8 Compactron amp from 12/31/2010 ? Definitely no screws in the Clementine.
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Re: Clementine confusion

Postby croudyj » Tue Apr 26, 2016 12:21 pm

You're right! I downloaded a picture for reference and I chose the wrong one! (sick)

John
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Re: Clementine confusion

Postby 20to20 » Wed Apr 27, 2016 10:36 am

croudyj wrote:In other news, I bought the Unibit and a piece of scrap steel and had a go at punching a tube socket hole. The result was not too bad but there are a couple of dents where the punch originally cut into the metal. This steel sheet is 16 gauge which is about twice as thick as the chassis will be, but I'm wondering why this happened. Could my punch be 'dull'? I bought it used after all. The other side of the hole is actually cleaner but a bit sharp and would probably need smoothing down.

hole.jpg


John


Check into Ideal TKO carbide hole cutters. 1-1/8, and 3/4. All you need is a small dimple to set the pilot bit into and out comes the slug in 10 seconds. Spring loaded ejection. and the tiniest rim of burr to sandpaper off. No edge bending.
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