Clementine options
Posted: Thu Nov 20, 2014 7:20 am
Hi everyone! I finally have both time and resources to do some diy with tubes
I still have a few questions after lurking this fantastic forum for a while:
Is it a good idea to put a switch for UL/triode mode? I’ve seen a few other designs using a toggle switch to go from screen grid to plate through either the 100Ohm resistor or the center tap of the output transformer. From what i can tell from Shannons ULtra notes on this it’s not a good idea but I can’t really see why not? Should a switch for negative feedback also be included in that case perhaps? I don’t want to choose between a regular or UL clementine if I can have both.
Is it a good idea to use a switch between either 1.5k or 1.8k for R16 and R17, to be able to use both high and low power dissipation tubes?
Is it clever to use the unused filament tap for indication LEDs? This will not reflect the actual power in the circuit but on the other hand I assume it is better that it doesn’t interfere with the signal path?
I guess there is no need for a standby switch, but the lack of one makes me a bit… uneasy. Would the tubes suffer from hot starting through letting the filaments heat up first?
I get the impression that these would be minor additions that would make the design much more flexible. But maybe I’m just complicating things and should stick to the original design?
Any input on this would be greatly appreciated!
I still have a few questions after lurking this fantastic forum for a while:
Is it a good idea to put a switch for UL/triode mode? I’ve seen a few other designs using a toggle switch to go from screen grid to plate through either the 100Ohm resistor or the center tap of the output transformer. From what i can tell from Shannons ULtra notes on this it’s not a good idea but I can’t really see why not? Should a switch for negative feedback also be included in that case perhaps? I don’t want to choose between a regular or UL clementine if I can have both.
Is it a good idea to use a switch between either 1.5k or 1.8k for R16 and R17, to be able to use both high and low power dissipation tubes?
Is it clever to use the unused filament tap for indication LEDs? This will not reflect the actual power in the circuit but on the other hand I assume it is better that it doesn’t interfere with the signal path?
I guess there is no need for a standby switch, but the lack of one makes me a bit… uneasy. Would the tubes suffer from hot starting through letting the filaments heat up first?
I get the impression that these would be minor additions that would make the design much more flexible. But maybe I’m just complicating things and should stick to the original design?
Any input on this would be greatly appreciated!