Those resistances are bad, Kirk. Are the yellows and whites connected to anything (i.e. not to the PCB)?
Shannon
Shannon Parks wrote:Those resistances are bad, Kirk. Are the yellows and whites connected to anything (i.e. not to the PCB)?
Shannon
TomMcNally wrote:Kirk -
Yes, for 120 volt operation it's red-red and black-black. The tricky thing would be for 240 volts *which* red and black to use, just like the secondary. They need to be phased properly. Antek hasn't done us any favors using the same colors on each winding. There is no simple way to for the average person with a multimeter to figure it out.
Are you saying your transformer comes up with proper voltage readings AFTER the smoke?
Something is odd here ...
TomMcNally wrote:I don't think the transformer is bad then. I think if you join the proper yellow and white in series and ground the center point, you'll be OK. You may have shorted a winding when you brought it up before. Yes, the color coding is poor. Edcor does the same thing with the filament windings on their XPWR-005, but it's easier and safe to figure out 6.3 volts than 660 !
Again, if you join (tap quickly) yellow from one and white from another, and measure, you should get twice the voltage of one winding. If you do it wrong, you'll get half. I did it with a limited current low voltage supply to for safety.
It's worth trying again. Make sure the filament supply isn't shorted also. Mine had wire colors that differed from the sheet.
It looks like blue/red and green/orange
Hi Tom, Well I ran out to Goodwill for a wall wart(open!) I got a 7.5v AC...I hooked it up and I'm getting 22V between both pairs of the Yellow/White wires but once I tap the other two together the voltage drops to zero! this happens with all combinations...TomMcNally wrote:Kirk -
You are correct, basically the diagram from Antek, just need to figure out the wires.
I would not use the Variac, because you have basically unlimited current (until the fuse blows)
look around and see if you can find a small AC (not DC) wall wart of 6 to 9 volts. Remember that
the output voltage will be pretty high with a lot of current (dangerous) with more than a few volts.
Don't ground anything, or even have it connected to the amp. Just my suggestions, you can make it work
a number of ways. But seriously ... only SECONDS each try. Don't cook it. Hook the voltmeter up to
a set of white and yellow, apply AC, TAP the other pair while observing the meter. Go for the highest
voltage. When you're happy with the results, hook it up and SLOWLY bring it up.
Keep in mind that your meltdown before (assuming the transformer is still good) could have been an
issue with the filament windings, if they are shorted you'd have the same smoke.
miker wrote:What happens if you tie the two yellow secondary leads together and measure the voltage between the two whites? Or, tie the two whites together and measure across the two yellows?
Nothing to loose at this point.
thanks Tom,...sending it back might not be a bad idea, my dealing with them have been all over the map..first I ordered and paid for AS-1T300!...days later they got back to me that it was out of stock....I ruminated about an option and even asked them for a recommendation citing the Dynaco's parameters,...no word so I ordered the AS-4T320, days after receiving the transformer they finally got back to me with their recommendation, the AS-05T320! Oye!... anyway thanks again.TomMcNally wrote:The AS-05T320 only has one HV winding with no centertap. You could use it if you added two more diodes to make a bridge I suppose. I used the AS-1T300 which works fine.
Maybe you could send yours back to Antek in a flat rate USPS box and ask THEM to test it and mark the leads. It could be miswired.
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