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1) With high B+ Clementines, you better change C7, C8, C9 and C10 to 500V caps: Mouser LINK
2) Your voltages at V1 seem incorrect. What is the voltage drop across R9 & R10? After you get me the correct voltages, we'll probably decide to change R22 to 20K or higher.

Shannon

Thanks Shannon,
I used 500v caps and now I'll check the voltage drop on R9&R10.

Hi Shannon,
I measured the voltage drop at R9 and R10 ,it's 460V before and 455V after.is this ok???

thanks

noisy wrote:Hi Shannon,
I measured the voltage drop at R9 and R10 ,it's 460V before and 455V after.is this ok???

thanks

Nope. V1 doesn't seem to be drawing any current. Go ahead and take all voltages on V1 and post them here.

Shannon

Thanks Shannon,
I'll give it a go.I'm going to get another meter to make sure!!

Hi Shannon,
I bought a new multimeter......wow now i'm feeling like an idiot. the B+ voltage is 488, J5-1 IS 357 and J5-3 is 357VAC. The V1 voltages are
pin1-0v
pin2-478v
pin3-0v
pin4-0v
pin5-478v
pin6-0v
pin7-3.5vac
pin8-3.5vac
the transformer used to drive 2x EL34's PP. I hope this makes sense.

noisy wrote:Hi Shannon,
I bought a new multimeter......wow now i'm feeling like an idiot. the B+ voltage is 488, J5-1 IS 357 and J5-3 is 357VAC. The V1 voltages are
pin1-0v
pin2-478v
pin3-0v
pin4-0v
pin5-478v
pin6-0v
pin7-3.5vac
pin8-3.5vac
the transformer used to drive 2x EL34's PP. I hope this makes sense.

Wait a sec. These are *without* a 6SL7 in the socket, right? If so, I think we need to go ahead and "tube it up" and retake voltages.

Shannon

Thanks Shannon,
I'll put the valves/tubes in ......

I'm back........I finished the amp after getting another transformer,the old one didn't have enough grunt to get the heaters to work. I'm really happy with the sound.Here is a photo from my phone .