Parts List / Mouser BOM

sweet & juicy SE amp for 1626 Darlings and the 6L6 family

Parts List / Mouser BOM

Postby Ty_Bower » Sat Aug 06, 2011 2:09 pm

Has anyone made a Mouser bill of materials yet?
"It's a different experience; the noise occlusion, crisp, clear sound, and defined powerful bass. Strong bass does not corrupt the higher frequencies, giving a very different overall feel of the sound, one that is, in my opinion, quite unique."
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Postby Shannon Parks » Sat Aug 06, 2011 2:25 pm

I'll up this.

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Postby TomMcNally » Sun Aug 07, 2011 4:30 pm

Shannon -

You might want to add the 1/2" aluminum spacers too, so there
are no surprises ... they are hard to source locally.

Also R-22 is shown as 7.5Kon the schematic and 10K on the BOM.
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Postby Shannon Parks » Sun Aug 07, 2011 4:43 pm

Will do!

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Postby Ty_Bower » Mon Aug 08, 2011 4:33 am

Oh... I also might source the power input (switch, fuse, and IEC if desired) from Mouser. I always liked those "Mountain" brand rocker switches.
"It's a different experience; the noise occlusion, crisp, clear sound, and defined powerful bass. Strong bass does not corrupt the higher frequencies, giving a very different overall feel of the sound, one that is, in my opinion, quite unique."
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Postby Ty_Bower » Sat Sep 03, 2011 6:04 pm

Shannon, why do you suggest the 5408 (three amp) rectifier diode for this circuit? I can see using it in the heater supply, but for B+ duty I would have thought a fast recovery diode would have been preferred. Any comments?
"It's a different experience; the noise occlusion, crisp, clear sound, and defined powerful bass. Strong bass does not corrupt the higher frequencies, giving a very different overall feel of the sound, one that is, in my opinion, quite unique."
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Postby Shannon Parks » Mon Sep 05, 2011 6:34 am

No reason to not use the something like a UF4007. I made a couple mods from Tom's schematic which was a modded Bob's schematic, but tried to keep it as close as possible otherwise until I built one. So don't hesitate to change something.

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Postby Ty_Bower » Wed Sep 07, 2011 7:23 pm

While I'm busy substituting parts, any thoughts on these swaps?

D3, D4 -> Schottky diodes 511-1N5821
C1, C2 -> Wima MKP10 polypropylene box caps 505-M10.22/400/5P
C3, C4 -> "Audio Grade" 16 volt, 330 uF 647-UKW1C331MPD
C5, C6 -> "Audio Grade" 100 volt, 100 uF 647-UKW2A101MPD
R3, R4, R13, R14 -> carbon composition 30BJ500-1.0K

I would have liked to have used the "exact match" for C3, C4 except it was backordered. I didn't think the 16 volt rating would hurt anything here, since I can't imagine the cathode voltage of the 12SL7 is going to be more than a couple volts above ground.
"It's a different experience; the noise occlusion, crisp, clear sound, and defined powerful bass. Strong bass does not corrupt the higher frequencies, giving a very different overall feel of the sound, one that is, in my opinion, quite unique."
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Postby Shannon Parks » Thu Sep 08, 2011 5:33 am

Those look fine, Ty. It looks like the dims of the caps will fit, though the lead spacing may be snug and not allow a flush mount. But not a problem in this design.

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Postby Ty_Bower » Thu Sep 08, 2011 6:43 pm

The lead spacing ought to be the same as the ones in the recommended BOM. I checked the data sheets. It's 3.5mm spacing for the little guy, and 5mm for the bigger one. I think I'll go grab the board and a ruler and verify. The Wima cap has 22.5mm spacing, which I think will fit neatly into the innermost holes on the board.

No other comments on the use of the Schottky diodes for the voltage doubler in the heater supply? To be honest, I'm not sure I fully appreciate all the pros and cons. I just know they are used in the GetSetGo, so I figured they would be appropriate here.
"It's a different experience; the noise occlusion, crisp, clear sound, and defined powerful bass. Strong bass does not corrupt the higher frequencies, giving a very different overall feel of the sound, one that is, in my opinion, quite unique."
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Postby Shannon Parks » Fri Sep 09, 2011 4:31 am

Ty_Bower wrote:The lead spacing ought to be the same as the ones in the recommended BOM. I checked the data sheets. It's 3.5mm spacing for the little guy, and 5mm for the bigger one. I think I'll go grab the board and a ruler and verify. The Wima cap has 22.5mm spacing, which I think will fit neatly into the innermost holes on the board.


Ah - OK. I didn't back reference the lead spacing. Just eyeballed it with a board. That's cool then.

Ty_Bower wrote:No other comments on the use of the Schottky diodes for the voltage doubler in the heater supply? To be honest, I'm not sure I fully appreciate all the pros and cons. I just know they are used in the GetSetGo, so I figured they would be appropriate here.


The Schottky diodes were necessary in order to squeeze the CRC filter in there, otherwise we had too much voltage drop due to the standard diodes. I admit that I can't remember the exact process, but Schottkys were 100% necessary for the GSG (i.e. a standard inline bridge would've been easier).

For the Clementine doubler circuit, they aren't necessary. You would need to determine R26 at "run time" - may be 1 to 3 ohms. With the standard diodes, I think R26 will be a jumper most of the time.

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Postby Ty_Bower » Sat Sep 10, 2011 6:01 pm

Question on the fuse (for the whole Darling Clementine) - is 1/2A, slow blow about right? I'm guessing 650mA @ 12.6V, plus 52mA @ 280V is less than 23VA, so the whole amp is less than 1/4 A draw from the line.
"It's a different experience; the noise occlusion, crisp, clear sound, and defined powerful bass. Strong bass does not corrupt the higher frequencies, giving a very different overall feel of the sound, one that is, in my opinion, quite unique."
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Postby Shannon Parks » Sat Sep 10, 2011 6:31 pm

Ty_Bower wrote:Question on the fuse (for the whole Darling Clementine) - is 1/2A, slow blow about right? I'm guessing 650mA @ 12.6V, plus 52mA @ 280V is less than 23VA, so the whole amp is less than 1/4 A draw from the line.


I think that should fly. Just measured mine with a Kill A Watt:
0.24A, 29VA, 26W

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