I suppose that the Booz-boxes could be prettied up with some stick-on contact paper with a 100% pure genuine fake-looking simulated woodgrain pattern. Or just leave them as-is in their elemental spugliness, for good test bench speakers.
Hey, I'm not too picky, can't you tell... ;-p
/ed B
BLH with Fostex FE-87
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Re: BLH with Fostex FE-87
by Ty_Bower » Fri Oct 23, 2009 11:37 am
SDS-PAGE wrote:http://bp1.blogger.com/_i08-ibvZ150/SDj7ukkxJeI/AAAAAAAAA8c/IGHz_2tZ-lc/s1600-h/S5033300.JPG
Bought this pair on eBay... They are based on Nagaoka Tetsuo's M-8BH mini back loaded horn design.
Min,
If I may ask, how wide is the front of the finished enclosure? Would you say it is 156mm, or 152mm? How thick is the plywood used in its construction? Is it 16mm thick?
"It's a different experience; the noise occlusion, crisp, clear sound, and defined powerful bass. Strong bass does not corrupt the higher frequencies, giving a very different overall feel of the sound, one that is, in my opinion, quite unique."
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by Ty_Bower » Fri Nov 13, 2009 10:49 am
You didn't by any chance receive an instruction manual with it? Maybe something like this:
"It's a different experience; the noise occlusion, crisp, clear sound, and defined powerful bass. Strong bass does not corrupt the higher frequencies, giving a very different overall feel of the sound, one that is, in my opinion, quite unique."
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Ty_Bower - KT88
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by SDS-PAGE » Fri Nov 13, 2009 9:55 pm
Ty,
I just bought them off eBay from a guy who had built them. Didn't recieve an instruction manual or such. Follow the link in my original post and you might find speaker plans.
Good luck,
Min
I just bought them off eBay from a guy who had built them. Didn't recieve an instruction manual or such. Follow the link in my original post and you might find speaker plans.
Good luck,
Min
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by EWBrown » Sat Nov 14, 2009 12:05 am
They look like nice compact units, not nearly as large and heavy as my BK-16s.
IIRC, Madisound does sell other sized BLH kits than the BK16, though one has to search pretty deeply to find them. I'm considering a set of BK-20s for my FE207Es. I had put off getting these earlier, because I didn't want to have to haul them (along with everything else) from NH to NC.
/ed B in NC
IIRC, Madisound does sell other sized BLH kits than the BK16, though one has to search pretty deeply to find them. I'm considering a set of BK-20s for my FE207Es. I had put off getting these earlier, because I didn't want to have to haul them (along with everything else) from NH to NC.
/ed B in NC
Last edited by EWBrown on Sun Nov 15, 2009 2:50 pm, edited 1 time in total.
Real Radios Glow in the Dark
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by Ty_Bower » Sat Nov 14, 2009 9:18 pm
Well, I suppose I'll have to do the best with what I've got. Here they are so far... no glue yet, I just dry fit to see how it's going to look.
"It's a different experience; the noise occlusion, crisp, clear sound, and defined powerful bass. Strong bass does not corrupt the higher frequencies, giving a very different overall feel of the sound, one that is, in my opinion, quite unique."
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Ty_Bower - KT88
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by Ty_Bower » Sat Nov 14, 2009 10:18 pm
You're pretty close. By volume it's 49.8% wood, 50.2% air. The thing was supposed to be built out of 15~16mm plywood, but that was too hard for me to source so I used 18mm instead. The box will stand 17" tall by 6 1/8" wide by 8 1/2" deep when it is done. A "bookshelf" speaker, or maybe a mini-monitor depending on your definition.
Oh, did I mention those two little cavities along the bottom are supposed to be filled with bags of sand?
Oh, did I mention those two little cavities along the bottom are supposed to be filled with bags of sand?
"It's a different experience; the noise occlusion, crisp, clear sound, and defined powerful bass. Strong bass does not corrupt the higher frequencies, giving a very different overall feel of the sound, one that is, in my opinion, quite unique."
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by nyazzip » Sat Nov 14, 2009 10:23 pm
i googled those same speakers, and one guy put a plastic bag of fish tank gravel in each of his. but i don't understand what is the point of creating a volume, then filling it up with something that dense?why include that volume in the box design in the first place? hmmm. speakers boxes are strange beasts
<i>the poor craftsman blames his tools</i>
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by Ty_Bower » Sat Nov 14, 2009 10:40 pm
It's supposed to be an ever-increasing cross-sectional area - a horn. It might have a linear profile (like an ice cream cone) or it might be exponential, or maybe something else. To make it fit into a smaller area, the horn is folded up. Think of a wooden tuba. Of course, wood likes to be cut into rectangles, so it is somewhat awkward to form the curves of a horn. If you want the thing to look like a rectangular box from the outside, there's going to be corners which must be filled in to maintain the horn shaped profile of the inside.
Some of the horn designs are really freaky. Here's a mild example:
http://www.frugal-horn.com/daleks.html
Some of the horn designs are really freaky. Here's a mild example:
http://www.frugal-horn.com/daleks.html
"It's a different experience; the noise occlusion, crisp, clear sound, and defined powerful bass. Strong bass does not corrupt the higher frequencies, giving a very different overall feel of the sound, one that is, in my opinion, quite unique."
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by EWBrown » Sun Nov 15, 2009 3:14 pm
THis is an exponential hon, or at least as "exponential" as it can be made, with the use of all right-angle cuts.
The purpose of filling the two bottom cavities with bags of sand or aquarium gravel is to create a smoother, angled "plane" for the bottom of the horn's mouth. A sheet of 18 mm or 3/4 inch plywood would also work very well, but that would require some pretty fancy angled (mitered) cuts in order to get it to fit perfectly and leave no unwanted gaps.
Otherwise, the two unfilled cavities on the bottom would create all sorts of nasty resonances, and the bass response would be impacted.
------------------
The Madisound BK-16 kits had several angle-cut pieces (and the side panels were routed in order to create a "perfect" seal, and because of this feature, the order of installation of the various pieces was VERY critical, one "goof" and some of the smaller cut pieces could not be installed.
This required a dry-fit tryout before any glue was applied, and then only one side was was to be glued, until everything was in place, This was a reiterative process, which meant that the dry-fit side had to be removed and re-installed after each step of installing the interior pieces.The other side had to be used "dry", in order to make sure that all of the interior pieces didn't shift around, and all of these steps thusly ensured a perfect fit, when the other side was finally glued in place.
The provided instructions did this one piece at a time, but after some dry fit experimentation, I determined that sometimes 2 or 3 pieces could be installed (and glued) in one "step" of the assembly.
The BK-16 did end up having a couple of empty hollow cavities, and for sheer "perfection" these could have been filled with dry sand, though I didn't bother with that step, the cabs were already more than heavy enough.
Even as a precisely ready-cut and routed kit, it was still a pretty daunting project to get it all together.
From the Cyrillic alphabet inspection stamps on some of the wood pieces, I believe that the BK-16s were from Russia. At teh time, the cab kits were $98 each, and only required some light sanding before the assembly process began. If the 11-layer (baltic birch) plywood and the woodworking had been done in the USA, I'm sure the unit cost would have been a LOT higher.
/ed B
The purpose of filling the two bottom cavities with bags of sand or aquarium gravel is to create a smoother, angled "plane" for the bottom of the horn's mouth. A sheet of 18 mm or 3/4 inch plywood would also work very well, but that would require some pretty fancy angled (mitered) cuts in order to get it to fit perfectly and leave no unwanted gaps.
Otherwise, the two unfilled cavities on the bottom would create all sorts of nasty resonances, and the bass response would be impacted.
------------------
The Madisound BK-16 kits had several angle-cut pieces (and the side panels were routed in order to create a "perfect" seal, and because of this feature, the order of installation of the various pieces was VERY critical, one "goof" and some of the smaller cut pieces could not be installed.
This required a dry-fit tryout before any glue was applied, and then only one side was was to be glued, until everything was in place, This was a reiterative process, which meant that the dry-fit side had to be removed and re-installed after each step of installing the interior pieces.The other side had to be used "dry", in order to make sure that all of the interior pieces didn't shift around, and all of these steps thusly ensured a perfect fit, when the other side was finally glued in place.
The provided instructions did this one piece at a time, but after some dry fit experimentation, I determined that sometimes 2 or 3 pieces could be installed (and glued) in one "step" of the assembly.
The BK-16 did end up having a couple of empty hollow cavities, and for sheer "perfection" these could have been filled with dry sand, though I didn't bother with that step, the cabs were already more than heavy enough.
Even as a precisely ready-cut and routed kit, it was still a pretty daunting project to get it all together.
From the Cyrillic alphabet inspection stamps on some of the wood pieces, I believe that the BK-16s were from Russia. At teh time, the cab kits were $98 each, and only required some light sanding before the assembly process began. If the 11-layer (baltic birch) plywood and the woodworking had been done in the USA, I'm sure the unit cost would have been a LOT higher.
/ed B
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EWBrown - Insulator & Iron Magnate
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by Ty_Bower » Thu Nov 19, 2009 5:25 pm
nyazzip wrote:did the plans call for medium density fiberboard or plywood?
From what I've read, plywood is preferred. Something about the stiffness of MDF vs plywood, resonances in the audio range, and all that. MDF can also be nasty stuff with which to work. The dust is small and goes everywhere, and fibers aren't good for your lungs. Finally, plywood is supposed to be more airtight than MDF. MDF requires a seal coat to keep it airtight.
The original Makizou plan is probably based on 15mm or 16mm plywood. All the small Fostex "factory recommended" enclosures are based on 15mm material. In the US the nearest stuff you'll find is 5/8", which is somewhere between 15mm and 16mm. I have found that decent quality (i.e., no CDX junk) 5/8" is darn near impossible to find around here. I'd have to mail order it, pay crazy prices for odd sized partial sheets, and lump shipping on top. I decided to go with 3/4" plywood, which is really sold as 23/32", which actually measures out pretty close to 18mm.
I took the best (only?) Makizou design plan I could find on the internet. Then I found as many photos of the insides as I could. I measured the ratios between pieces and tried to scale things to determine the actual dimensions. I made some executive decisions and move a few pieces around slightly. Then I resized everything to try to work with 18mm material. I made a few pieces a little longer, or a little farther apart in an attempt to keep the internal cross sectional areas and volumes as close to original as possible. We'll see how it turns out.
"It's a different experience; the noise occlusion, crisp, clear sound, and defined powerful bass. Strong bass does not corrupt the higher frequencies, giving a very different overall feel of the sound, one that is, in my opinion, quite unique."
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by Ty_Bower » Sat Nov 28, 2009 7:12 pm
The Fostex FE-87E will get installed tomorrow, after the finish dries.
"It's a different experience; the noise occlusion, crisp, clear sound, and defined powerful bass. Strong bass does not corrupt the higher frequencies, giving a very different overall feel of the sound, one that is, in my opinion, quite unique."
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Ty_Bower - KT88
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