Slow Progress

2nd harmonics for the masses

Slow Progress

Postby justinsweber » Fri Sep 02, 2011 11:14 pm

I decided to use the templates laid out by more exp builders, pairing the Getset with 300b output tubes.

Im waiting for the PCB and parts, but the transformers have made it in and are mounted.

Transformer compliament includes:
2 CXSE25-8-5K output transformers (10 lbs each)
Wattage 25W
Max. Current 200mA
Primary (input) Impedance 5K Ohms
Primary (input) DCR 85 Ohms
Primary (input) Inductance 50H
Screen/Grid Tap 40%
Secondary (output) Impedance 8 Ohms
Secondary (output) DCR <1 Ohm
Frequency Response 20~20K Hz., <1dBu


1 XPWR005-120 Power Transformer
Power transformer for 660V (330-0-330) at 180mA center tapped and two 6.3V at 2.5A.


2 C354 cokes. 55 ohms, 1.5 henries, 10% tolerance, 2500 volt DC hipot tested, 200 ma DC.

I can’t afford tubes yet, but should be something to behold when done.
Shannon was kind and found the 5watt 1.5ohm resistors I needed. I bought 4 for $2 and paid $8 for shipping. Ouch!
The sockets are antique electronic supply $25 each... no idea why so much, but will allow for under mount and a clean look up top.

Image


Image

Image
justinsweber
 
Posts: 188
Joined: Sat Sep 20, 2008 7:16 pm
Location: Long Beach, CA

Postby justinsweber » Fri Sep 02, 2011 11:51 pm

Is it possible to include a stand by circuit?
Maybe one of the automated units from ebay.
justinsweber
 
Posts: 188
Joined: Sat Sep 20, 2008 7:16 pm
Location: Long Beach, CA

Re: Slow Progress

Postby Ty_Bower » Sat Sep 03, 2011 7:31 am

justinsweber wrote:I decided to use... the Getset with 300b output tubes.

Transformer complement includes:

1 XPWR005-120 Power Transformer
Power transformer for 660V (330-0-330) at 180mA center tapped and two 6.3V at 2.5A.


The XPWR005 has two 6.3 volt heater windings, which is perfect for 6B4G or 6A3 tubes. However, the 300B needs a 5 volt heater. Is that what you are going to do with the high wattage 1.5 ohm resistors? Simply use them to drop the excess voltage? Ah yes, now I see. I should have read the 300B sticky first. :$

The sockets are antique electronic supply $25 each... no idea why so much, but will allow for under mount and a clean look up top.


Chinese UX4 sockets sell on eBay for $11 a pair, shipped.
"It's a different experience; the noise occlusion, crisp, clear sound, and defined powerful bass. Strong bass does not corrupt the higher frequencies, giving a very different overall feel of the sound, one that is, in my opinion, quite unique."
User avatar
Ty_Bower
KT88
 
Posts: 1494
Joined: Wed Mar 21, 2007 2:50 pm
Location: Newark, DE

Postby TerrySmith » Sat Sep 03, 2011 7:59 am

If your using SS diodes instead of the 6AX5, just add CL90 in the primary circuit. A good spot is between the power switch and transformer pri lead.
T. Smith
User avatar
TerrySmith
KT88
 
Posts: 973
Joined: Sat Jan 31, 2004 12:51 pm
Location: Maryville TN

Postby TerrySmith » Sat Sep 03, 2011 8:11 am

WOW! $25.00 for a plastic UX4 socket? I would seriously call AES if you already have these sockets, Angela sells them for $1.99.
T. Smith
User avatar
TerrySmith
KT88
 
Posts: 973
Joined: Sat Jan 31, 2004 12:51 pm
Location: Maryville TN

Postby lth1 » Sat Sep 03, 2011 12:17 pm

Justin,

To include a standby circuit, I have gone to using separate filament and B+ transformers, and using John Broskies AC switch.

"The three positions are: all transformers off, transformer 1 on and transformer 2 off, and both transformers on. With this setup, you can turn on the heater transformer first, so the tubes are given a chance to heat up, which will create an electron cloud over the cathodes, protecting them from the B+ voltage.

$7.00"

This is an extremely positive and inexpensive way to build a standby circuit or switch. By using a separate filament xfmr it also makes it easier to play around with 6 or 12 volt tubes.

Lee Hankins
lth1
 
Posts: 109
Joined: Sun Mar 21, 2004 12:29 am
Location: "End of the Road" Homer, Alaska

Postby justinsweber » Sat Sep 03, 2011 7:15 pm

I already drilled the hole for the power stitch I will use :-(.

Far better to ask in advance. Least I got the 2 chockes mounted :-0.
The CXSE transformer was used becuase of bandwidth. I use big cornscala's that get into the low 40s. The GXSEs seemed flat compaired to my McIntosh gear. Im hoping for SE bliss, with the buy in of the big Edcor transformers. Seems over kill 25watts for a 5watt 300b, but I wanted full bandwidth. Maybe I shoudl have had them build some 15watt 20hz-20khz ones. Again, more questions in planing might help me:-).

About the SS rectifer idea. I think Ill stick with tube rectifer. Ease the load on the 300bs.

Does the 6AX5 allow for slower warm up like the GZ34?
I was always told that the 5AR4 was a better choice for my ST70 as it allows the voltage to come up slowly instead of the 5U4GB
justinsweber
 
Posts: 188
Joined: Sat Sep 20, 2008 7:16 pm
Location: Long Beach, CA

Postby Shannon Parks » Mon Sep 05, 2011 6:39 am

justinsweber wrote:Does the 6AX5 allow for slower warm up like the GZ34?


Yes, it has the slow warm up of a 5Y3.

Shannon
User avatar
Shannon Parks
Site Admin
 
Posts: 3764
Joined: Tue Mar 18, 2003 5:40 pm
Location: Poulsbo, Washington

Postby justinsweber » Wed Sep 21, 2011 12:37 am

With the heavy transformers, we spent some time and had reinforcements for the chassis built... no bowing now. I need a few resistors and we can start wiring. Once built it will be a mo or so before it can be tested... Need to save for tubes :-(.

Image

Image
justinsweber
 
Posts: 188
Joined: Sat Sep 20, 2008 7:16 pm
Location: Long Beach, CA

Postby Shannon Parks » Wed Sep 21, 2011 5:04 am

Nice compartmentalized setup. Which 300Bs will you be using?

Shannon
User avatar
Shannon Parks
Site Admin
 
Posts: 3764
Joined: Tue Mar 18, 2003 5:40 pm
Location: Poulsbo, Washington

Postby justinsweber » Wed Sep 21, 2011 3:48 pm

I had assumed EH300Bs, but would love some sugestions.

I just used tubesandmore.com to get the 1626s and 12SL7s for my other project.
justinsweber
 
Posts: 188
Joined: Sat Sep 20, 2008 7:16 pm
Location: Long Beach, CA

Postby justinsweber » Mon Oct 03, 2011 1:26 am

Image

Image

My budy Tom Meza helped clean all the wires up nicely... can eat it off it now.
justinsweber
 
Posts: 188
Joined: Sat Sep 20, 2008 7:16 pm
Location: Long Beach, CA

Postby justinsweber » Mon Oct 03, 2011 1:30 am

Like a dumb ass I put R15a-R15c and R16a-R16c on the side with the C1... I bought some very very cool Wima caps that need all the space you can give them... as a result... I will build another PCB and put the resistors on the right side and my cool ass caps on the oposite... Maybe Ill hear no diff. I can fire this bad boy up for a mo or so... bought the transformers for the Clem... and thus no extra cash for 300bs.
justinsweber
 
Posts: 188
Joined: Sat Sep 20, 2008 7:16 pm
Location: Long Beach, CA

Postby justinsweber » Sat Oct 22, 2011 3:18 am

Image

WIth the Wima Caps on the new PCB, Ive ordered my EH300Bs... should have this bad boy up and running in a week.
justinsweber
 
Posts: 188
Joined: Sat Sep 20, 2008 7:16 pm
Location: Long Beach, CA

Postby Shannon Parks » Sat Oct 22, 2011 4:12 am

All the Wima caps I've ever tested have worked very well. Looking good!

Shannon
User avatar
Shannon Parks
Site Admin
 
Posts: 3764
Joined: Tue Mar 18, 2003 5:40 pm
Location: Poulsbo, Washington

Next

Return to get*set*go

Who is online

Users browsing this forum: No registered users and 16 guests