300B + sold state rectifer

[justinsweber]

I have read posts re: sold state rectifers for increased +B.
Would the Weber drop in for the 6X5 work?
Here is the Webere specs:
Part: WX5 rectifer: 6AX5 Voltage Drop:125ma Vdrop @ Imax:50V
If not then is there an alt sugestion... I like the looks and the ease of buying the part needed.

2ndly... what would be the wattage increase?

I was going to use a massive choke, but big output transformers dont allow for the space needed for a big choke.


Thanks in advance.


Justin

[Geek]

Hi,

A 6X5 sub may go *poof* in a 300B environment due to the current requirement. If you want more voltage, check out a GZ34. They're $20 at the Tube Store.

Cheers!

[justinsweber]

My ignorance may have made my question unclear.
I was mulling the idea of a solid state rectify... I have read of others just adding diodes to an un-used tube base... able to get from tubesandmore.com, but I wanted to buy one that was already made from ***bad link***

1. I was hoping someone could sugest the right SS rectifer part number?
2. What are the improvements in doing so? How much of an increase in wattage or coller running power transformer?

Thanks for the reply... Being a newbe eveything is confusing.

[Geek]

Hi,

In that case, I would suggest the part number WAX5, since it's the 6AX5 Shannon recommends Or use a WU4GB.

Why do you think there will be an improvement?

Tube and SS rectifiers are different and sound different. SS replacements sound different again.

There is no "correct" rectifier, as long as ratings are respected

Cheers!

[Shannon Parks]

In a 300B modded GSG, you'd probably get a ~1.5W increase by switching to diode rectifiers and losing the voltage drop of the 6AX5GT. Not sure which device to purchase (that link seemed broken - took me to spam). I would just experiment with a couple of diodes soldered on the PCB: V2 - pin 3 to pin 8, and pin 5 to pin 8. Bands at pin 8.

Remove your 6AX5GT of course. You'll have to unsolder the diodes before you replace your 6AX5GT. But this is a simple method to test it out. Be sure you let the amp rest for several minutes before messing with this mod, to be sure the B+ bleeds. Test with a DMM for certainty at pin 8. Clip ground at J6-2 or 3, or R16a/b/c.

Shannon

[Geek]

Corrected link: http://www.webervst.com/ccap.html

Shannon - do you have an updated browser? My Firefox blocked the IFRAME explot.
(I have norified Weber of this)

Cheers!

[Shannon Parks]

Corrected link: http://www.webervst.com/ccap.html

Shannon - do you have an updated browser? My Firefox blocked the IFRAME explot.
(I have norified Weber of this)

Cheers!

I use Firefox 4 with NoScript plug-in. I'll delete the bad link. Chrome stopped it (at work).

Shannon

[Quad]

There's an interesting thread here -

http://dynacotubeaudio.forumotion.com/t ... r-solution

[elbinster]

If I recall, the Weber Copper Caps emulate the typical voltage drop of the tube rectifier they are replacing, so you wouldn't get any additional B+ voltage. About all you would save is filament power. Shannon's approach of simply subbing in diodes for 6AX5 would give you more B+ and therefore watts (at the expense of being mean to your output tubes)

[TerrySmith]

I've been hollowing out metal tubes and soldering diodes inside to the appropriate pins. That way you can plug in the original tube if nec.