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Looks like Mouser is out of some parts for the GSG. Are there any recommended sites for replacements parts? I tried to cross reference the barrier strips with another brand but got nothing. Digikey has some with similar specs but I want to make sure before ordering. Some of these parts are backordered until November.

Get the next size or two up of the barrier strips, then cut
the last couple of positions off with a hack saw, and then
file it down with a rasp ... it will look 100% perfect.
I've done that many times.

Thanks for the reply Tom. The problem is that they are out of all the screw style. Would these from Digi-key work?
http://search.digikey.com/scripts/DkSea ... =A98498-ND

Tom is right. You could buy the NC6-P107-06 instead and cut one off the end. It's cheaper, too. For that matter, you could buy one NC6-P107-11 and cut it in half, making two five position strips out of it.

Other parts not in stock...
1W 51 ohm resistor (need 2)
22uF 450V cap, 16x25, 7.5LS (need 2)
RCA jack washers (need 2)

I'd look at these for substitutes:
(1W, 51 ohm) 261-51-RC
(22uF, 450V) 661-EKMGG451ELL220ML or 667-ECA-2WHG220

For the RCA jacks, I didn't care much for the Switchcraft jacks specified in the BOM. For some reason, my cables fit too tightly on them. I've used the Kobiconn on other projects and they work better for me. Try part number 161-2002 and 161-2003 (red & black) instead. They're supposed to come with insulating washers.

dmagalhaes wrote:The problem is that they are out of all the screw style.

Huh? They've got 272 of the NC6-P107-06 in stock right now.

edit... By the way, whose output transformers are you planning to use?

[quote="Ty_Bower"][quote="dmagalhaes"]The problem is that they are out of all the screw style.[/quote]

Huh? They've got 272 of the NC6-P107-06 in stock right now.[/quote]

My mistake. I was searching by filter and these didn't come up when I chose "Screw Style" termination.

Thanks for the recommendation

Ty_Bower wrote:

dmagalhaes wrote:The problem is that they are out of all the screw style.

Huh? They've got 272 of the NC6-P107-06 in stock right now.

edit... By the way, whose output transformers are you planning to use?

Most likely Transcender's.

dmagalhaes wrote:Thanks for the recommendation

My pleasure.

For the 51 ohm resistor, maybe 261-51-RC would be a better choice. It's metal oxide (the other one I suggested is metal film). I'm just thinking from a flameproof perspective.

261-51-RC is a little bigger (5mm x 12mm, instead of 4mm x 10mm) but I think there is plenty of room on the circuit board to fit it in. That's R11 and R12, right?

Can I step down to 400V for the .22uf Orange drop? they are out of stock on that one too.

dmagalhaes wrote:Can I step down to 400V for the .22uf Orange drop? they are out of stock on that one too.

I wouldn't. Some will tell you it is OK, since the normal working voltage is well below 400V (plate voltage on the 6SL7GT should be around 150VDC). However, if you have a "no-load" condition on the power supply you might see as much as 1.414 * 330 = 466 volts. Granted, this is unlikely, but I prefer to err on the side of caution.

You could use the yellow Mallory caps. They won't win any awards in the "boutique capacitor" contest, but I've seen them suggested for other amp builds. Part number is 539-150224J630LE

I haven't seen these used before, but the Xicon seems to be an Orange Drop look-alike. Mouser number 1429-6224

The CDE caps appear sufficiently exotic. Print a self-adhesive label that says "Audiophile" and wrap it around the side. Mouser number 5984-940C6P22K-F

The Wima MKP box caps are high quality, but they're pricey too. Mouser number 505-M10.22/630/5

I used the surplus Russian K40Y caps, rated at 1000V. They're way too big, but I stuffed them in anyway. I ended up crossing the left and right channels (left side of the 6SL7GT actually goes to the right side 6B4G) but you can't really tell because of how I wired the input jacks.

I would just skip the barrier strips. Just solder those wires directly on the PCB. Those wires don't get swapped like secondary taps of OPTs.

Min

I'm almost certain I have some already but I'll go with the CDE since they are manufactured 5 minutes from my office. I'm going to be running 300B's so I have already added the necessary parts to my list.

Ty_Bower wrote:

dmagalhaes wrote:Can I step down to 400V for the .22uf Orange drop? they are out of stock on that one too.

I wouldn't. Some will tell you it is OK, since the normal working voltage is well below 400V (plate voltage on the 6SL7GT should be around 150VDC). However, if you have a "no-load" condition on the power supply you might see as much as 1.414 * 330 = 466 volts. Granted, this is unlikely, but I prefer to err on the side of caution.

You could use the yellow Mallory caps. They won't win any awards in the "boutique capacitor" contest, but I've seen them suggested for other amp builds. Part number is 539-150224J630LE

I haven't seen these used before, but the Xicon seems to be an Orange Drop look-alike. Mouser number 1429-6224

The CDE caps appear sufficiently exotic. Print a self-adhesive label that says "Audiophile" and wrap it around the side. Mouser number 5984-940C6P22K-F

The Wima MKP box caps are high quality, but they're pricey too. Mouser number 505-M10.22/630/5

I used the surplus Russian K40Y caps, rated at 1000V. They're way too big, but I stuffed them in anyway. I ended up crossing the left and right channels (left side of the 6SL7GT actually goes to the right side 6B4G) but you can't really tell because of how I wired the input jacks.

Little problem with J1 there? lol :)

Ty_Bower wrote:

dmagalhaes wrote:Can I step down to 400V for the .22uf Orange drop? they are out of stock on that one too.

I wouldn't. Some will tell you it is OK, since the normal working voltage is well below 400V (plate voltage on the 6SL7GT should be around 150VDC). However, if you have a "no-load" condition on the power supply you might see as much as 1.414 * 330 = 466 volts. Granted, this is unlikely, but I prefer to err on the side of caution.

You could use the yellow Mallory caps. They won't win any awards in the "boutique capacitor" contest, but I've seen them suggested for other amp builds. Part number is 539-150224J630LE

I haven't seen these used before, but the Xicon seems to be an Orange Drop look-alike. Mouser number 1429-6224

The CDE caps appear sufficiently exotic. Print a self-adhesive label that says "Audiophile" and wrap it around the side. Mouser number 5984-940C6P22K-F

The Wima MKP box caps are high quality, but they're pricey too. Mouser number 505-M10.22/630/5

I used the surplus Russian K40Y caps, rated at 1000V. They're way too big, but I stuffed them in anyway. I ended up crossing the left and right channels (left side of the 6SL7GT actually goes to the right side 6B4G) but you can't really tell because of how I wired the input jacks.

Little problem with J1 there? lol :)

It might be worthwhile to look at the 942C series cap as well. It claims to offer "very high dV/dt". Maybe that's something good for audio. Just check the physical size, first. The 942C is significantly larger (diameter) than the 940C.