My G*S*G progress

2nd harmonics for the masses

My G*S*G progress

Postby Ty_Bower » Mon May 04, 2009 6:56 am

I'm reluctant to start another new thread, seeing as how I've created seven others in the past month all somehow related to the build of my G*S*G. But, since each on of those threads seems to be geared toward one specific aspect of the G*S*G, I couldn't figure out where to put the general stuff.

I started soldering last night. I stuck J1 on a little crooked, and it's going to annoy me. I'll probably have to try to suck the solder out and straighten it up a little. I also mistakenly installed R17a and R17b. I intended to use a second choke in their place, but you know how it is when you've got a big sack of Mouser parts in front of you. You just keep stuffing until all the parts are gone. Maybe I'll just save the second choke for another day. I deliberately neglected to install R13 and R14. I bought extra 51 and 47 ohm parts, and I couldn't decide whether to make the virtual hum pot 51/47 (as indicated in the manual) or 51/51. I thought I saw a post around here somewhere that suggested using matching resistors if you had sufficient filtering on the B+ supply. Anyway, since I might not be using the extra choke in the PSU, I'll probably just go with what the manual says.

Finally, I haven't quite figured out how to install the huge K40Y coupling caps. Right now my best plan is to stick them in Japanese style, with the cap sticking straight up off the board. I'll need to solder an extension onto one of the leads so it'll be able to bend over and reach the board. They'll be the tallest thing on the board, but I think that will be OK as long as my chassis is tall enough. I'm unsure about mechanical stability - maybe a little hot melt glue underneath would be a good idea?

Image Image

I splurged and finally bought something better to replace my junky Radio Shack $5 soldering iron. It's really nice to have something that will melt solder, but doesn't scorch the board. I wish I had bought one of these a long time ago.

Image
"It's a different experience; the noise occlusion, crisp, clear sound, and defined powerful bass. Strong bass does not corrupt the higher frequencies, giving a very different overall feel of the sound, one that is, in my opinion, quite unique."
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Postby TomMcNally » Mon May 04, 2009 7:34 am

The soldering station was the way to go Ty !

You should be able to heat up one leg of the barrier strip
and twist it, then after it cools do the other leg.
The best bet with those is to hold them tightly toward
the inside of the board and solder them in place.

Did you check to see if the coupling caps can work
horizontally ? There is a good amount of space around
them. I used smaller ones like yours in one of my builds ....

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Postby SDS-PAGE » Mon May 04, 2009 10:22 am

You might still be able to bend those leads to make them fit horizontally o nthe PCB. If not, I'd just wired those Russian tanks on terminal strips mounted on the chassis then just run short wires to the PCB. This is coming from a guy who point-to-point wires 99% of the time. Looks like Tom's caps are the 400VDC (smaller) PIOs.

Min
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Postby Ty_Bower » Mon May 04, 2009 7:23 pm

SDS-PAGE wrote:You might still be able to bend those leads to make them fit horizontally on the PCB.


Min, you're brilliant!

Image Image

Any reason not to do it this way?
"It's a different experience; the noise occlusion, crisp, clear sound, and defined powerful bass. Strong bass does not corrupt the higher frequencies, giving a very different overall feel of the sound, one that is, in my opinion, quite unique."
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Postby ecir38 » Mon May 04, 2009 8:41 pm

It looks like that would swap the right and left output tubes, don't know if that is a good idea. Here is how I did mine.

Image

Make sure you mount any resistors that may be in the way on the other side.

This is the first time I looked under there in awhile. Check out what the heat from the cathode resistors has done to the wrapping on the solen 1 uf cathode bypass caps I installed. Glad I checked this, how concerned should I be?

Brad
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Postby TomMcNally » Mon May 04, 2009 9:19 pm

I don't see any reason why a channel swap would be a
problem ... they can be swapped back at the input ???

Those Solen caps have cheap ass wrap on them, I've
seen that happen in a few amps too. Did you put
the cathode resistors on both sides of the board for
better cooling ? Yes, I know I didn't in the pic of
g*s*g #1 in the pic.
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Postby ecir38 » Mon May 04, 2009 9:40 pm

Just thought that swapping the channels might confuse an inexperiened possible future owner. I try and always think of the next guy that may own a piece down the road.

All but one resistor is on the other side.

Thanks, Brad
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Postby Ty_Bower » Wed May 13, 2009 11:05 am

I received the shipping notification from Edcor today... :))
I had placed the order exactly four weeks ago, on April 15th.
Too bad I have no time this weekend to finish the amp. :(
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4 weeks seems to be the stndard wait, now...

Postby EWBrown » Wed May 13, 2009 12:34 pm

I made an Edcor order the last week of April, they also told me that it would be "about" four weeks.

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Postby TomMcNally » Wed May 13, 2009 5:08 pm

I made an Edcor order the last week of April, they also told me that it would be "about" four weeks.


Same here ... I bought 3 or 4 sets ... I love those
XSE15-8-5K transformers. They are easy to work
with, and sound great for the price.
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Postby EWBrown » Thu May 14, 2009 6:46 am

I bought two each of the XSE15-8-5K, GSXE15-8-5K and GXSE10-8-5K

for future projects and conmparison & experimentation. Should arrive sometime around the end of May - Just before I "retire" again and complete my move to NC :))

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Postby snitch56 » Fri May 15, 2009 11:56 am

So are the Edcor XSE15-8-5K a Tom and Ed approved replacement for the James 6115 Outputs for the GSG???
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Postby TomMcNally » Fri May 15, 2009 5:49 pm

I'm sure there are guys out there with better ears than mine,
but I think they are just as good. Certainly not a nice looking
(I tuck them underneath anyway) but at $ 40 vs $ 150 it's
not a bad way to go.
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Postby TerrySmith » Fri May 15, 2009 7:31 pm

I wonder if you can get the Edcors with wire leads rather than push connectors?
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Postby TomMcNally » Fri May 15, 2009 10:40 pm

Terry -

I think Edcor will do wire leads for another few dollars. The
tabs they use are tinned, so they solder easily. I think I prefer
the tabs, as sometimes wire leads aren't long enough in some
configurations. The tabs seem more versatile. The only
advantage to wire leads would be if you want to mount
above the chassis safely with no exposed high voltage.
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