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IT LIVES!!!

PostPosted: Fri Jan 11, 2008 4:30 pm
by 77seriesIII
It is done in stage 1!! I currently have John Lee Hooker's The Healer Cranked!!

I'll post my problems tomorrow right now I'm jammin'

/e

Problem with a CLC

PostPosted: Sat Jan 12, 2008 10:57 am
by 77seriesIII
Ok the problems I was having all revolved around my implementation of a CLC within my 300B GSG. The symptoms I was having when I had the SS CLC in was output that was very quiet, to the point that you couldnt hear anything unless the volume on the computer was ALL the way up at 11. At that point the sound through the speakers was very distorted and still very quiet, lower in db than a whisper. I removed the CLC wired everything back in/out of the instructions and I get wonderful noise. At this point I know the problem is with my SS CLC wiring, either component, direction of diodes, or how I wired it.

http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Image:Diode_symbol.svg

This is what Ed B says ia little higher:

For the "external" caps and SS rectifiers, the two HV AC secondary leads would connect to the SS rectifier anodes, the two cathodes connect together and go to the cap-choke-cap (AKA CLC) filter.


Is the Cathode end of the diode the one with or without the silver banding?

How do you test a Cap or do you just replace it? Is it possible to check a diode, I dont think I hurt that but am thinking I reversed it based upon the low level noise I was getting out of the speakers Any suggestions?

Erick

PostPosted: Sat Jan 12, 2008 11:19 am
by TomMcNally
Hi Erick -

Yep - the cathode end of a diode is the banded end.

You can test them with a low scale on an ohmmeter -
you'll get a reading in one direction, rever your leads
and no reading the other way. If you get a hard short
each way, or no readings in either direction, the
diode is shorted ...

Testing a capacitor is a little different. If you short
across it with a wire, then put your ohmmeter across
it ... you may see a "kick" which is good.

The easiest way is to just put it in the circuit.

It's hard to diagnose where you went wrong, because
reverse diodes should have blown the fuse, as would
shorted diodes. Plus - you would have had NASTY loud
hum. It almost sounds like you had no high voltage
the way it was wired.

... tom

PostPosted: Sat Jan 12, 2008 1:13 pm
by 77seriesIII
Tom,

Damn, Wished I read this before troubleshooting...Pulling out the CLC and going back to semi-stock.

So it appears that my original diode setup was correct. I wonder if a CLC setup doesnt work with what I have do to the lack of voltage when I had it correctly (as far as I know) installed. I'll state back what I did and if you could let me know what I did wrong.

HV leads from tranny connect to the anode ends of 2 diodes (5408). Solder the cathode ends of both diodes together with a small length of wire that leads to the choke. Between the SS rect and choke place one + end of a 450v 220uF cap. On the other side of the choke place another + end of the other Cap. Connect both - poles of the Cap send to a 0V location (J6 pin 2 or 3 is what I used). The single wire of the choke past the Cap connection, connect both B+ leads from the two OPTs...Bob's your Uncle.

Is the above correct?

Thanks for the help.

/e

PostPosted: Sat Jan 12, 2008 2:14 pm
by 77seriesIII
I also just tested the diodes, simple way by inserting the anodes in pin 3 and 5 of the 6ax5 and the catodes into pin 8, worked like a charm. Drove my wife nuts while I kept replying Vicar Street by Tord Gustaven Trio testing tube combos vs SS rect. To my ears the SS rect sounded the sharpest with a CBS NOS 6ax5GT and a Tung SOL (Russian) 6SL7 GT combo a very close second.

Back to the music.

/e