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Gents,
I am planning on making a pair of MKIII's, somewhat simular to the dual rectified ST70 I built about 2 years ago:

http://www.diytube.com/phpBB2/viewtopic.php?t=2345

Triode's new chassis have a hole cut out for the can cap; but I'll be using the SDS board; so no cap. I've been thinking what I should use to fill the hole ? At first I was thinking to go along with dual 5AR4's..But that would be total overkill. Then I got to thinking about maybe some 816's ? But I don't think I'd have enough choke to filter it out sufficiently. It would look pretty damn cool; and I just so happen to have 4 816's lying around.

Any other ideas ?

Thanks,
Steve

SteveH wrote:Gents,
I am planning on making a pair of MKIII's, somewhat simular to the dual rectified ST70 I built about 2 years ago:

http://www.diytube.com/phpBB2/viewtopic.php?t=2345

Triode's new chassis have a hole cut out for the can cap; but I'll be using the SDS board; so no cap. I've been thinking what I should use to fill the hole ? At first I was thinking to go along with dual 5AR4's..But that would be total overkill. Then I got to thinking about maybe some 816's ? But I don't think I'd have enough choke to filter it out sufficiently. It would look pretty damn cool; and I just so happen to have 4 816's lying around.

Any other ideas ?

Thanks,
Steve

I was browsing once and ran across snap-in hole plugs. Try Googling "Chrome Hole Plugs" and see if that'll work for you.

Good luck,

Chris

When I built my Poseidons, I had the same problem.
I bought 4 large stainless steel fender washers at the hardware
store, and 2 short 1/4-20 stainless steel Phillips machine screws,
and nuts, and centered them in the holes and tightened them.
It looked good ... cost a few bucks.

You can't really see it in this pic, you can see the washer all the
way in the right corner behind the tube.

Hrmm...
It is a shame; as that it theoretically the 'front' of the amp. Wonder if there are any tube diodes that I can use to take the place of the 5AR4 ? Slow start wouldn't be a bad thing...

-Steve

Use a pair of TV damper tubes! The 5v will light'em up fine. Here is an example:

SteveH wrote:Hrmm...
It is a shame; as that it theoretically the 'front' of the amp. Wonder if there are any tube diodes that I can use to take the place of the 5AR4 ? Slow start wouldn't be a bad thing...

-Steve

Also check out "Amperite Delay Tubes" in the Poseidon forum a few days ago. I'm using Tom McNally's method of using a cheap 8-pin delay tube to trigger a relay. Simple and effective.

Chris

My amp (as shown in the pic) used GZ-37s ...

Keep the cages on? Can't see the empty hole that way...

By the way ... Dynakit Parts sells nice original style covers -

http://dynakitparts.com/store/catalog.aspx?cid=5

If only Dynaco cages weren't... so... ugly

Cheers!

If only Dynaco cages weren't... so... ugly

When original tube amps were invented, they were meant to be tucked in the back and never seen. Hence the industrial look. The preamp was
the front man.

TerrySmith wrote:Use a pair of TV damper tubes! The 5v will light'em up fine.

Terry,
Sounds like a winner; what tubes are those ?

Thanks,
Steve

Those are 6AX3's, requires 12 pin compactron sockets. An octal type could be a 6AX4, 6AU4 etc. Damper tubes are dirt cheap, last almost forever, and give an appx 30 second warm up time.

Here's another amp with 6AY3B's:

How about locating 2 bad quad capacitor cans and put them where they belong not connected.

Sal

Gents,
What I may do is use a rotary switch to select UL/Pentode/Triode mode in the place of the cap. I believe I would need a 2P3T rotary switch ?