Hi all
Is there any flexibility in the resister wattage on the Poseidon boards?
Eg. Can ¼ watt be upgraded to ½ watt etc.
If I increase the wattage by 2 is there any impact to the final outcome?
Greg
Resistors
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by TomMcNally » Mon Dec 11, 2006 6:33 am
Greg -
You can increase the wattage rating of a resistor, as long as it physically fits in the space. There is no sonic difference at all. If you substitute, try to stay with the same type of resistor the designer specified, metal film, carbon composition, carbon film, etc. Sometimes they are chosen for a reason. In a well designed circuit, the resistor ratings are usually well over what they need to be anyway, so they run cool and last longer, and keep their values. Resistors that are constantly run hot can drift.
... tom
You can increase the wattage rating of a resistor, as long as it physically fits in the space. There is no sonic difference at all. If you substitute, try to stay with the same type of resistor the designer specified, metal film, carbon composition, carbon film, etc. Sometimes they are chosen for a reason. In a well designed circuit, the resistor ratings are usually well over what they need to be anyway, so they run cool and last longer, and keep their values. Resistors that are constantly run hot can drift.
... tom
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by Shannon Parks » Mon Dec 11, 2006 7:10 am
But also be sure that your part fits well on the board. In particular, the 1/8W resistors have a small enough footprint that I wouldn't advise 1/2W.
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by Gregt01 » Mon Dec 11, 2006 1:47 pm
Thanks guys
I was thinking of replacing the standard film resistors with a mixture of CADDOCK: TF020R & USF340, AUDIO NOTE & SHINKOH Tantalum.
Reason for this is that these resistors are designs for audio applications. Or do I have too many dollars than sense?
Do you think this would be a overkill and the outcome would be minimum for the outlay?
Greg
I was thinking of replacing the standard film resistors with a mixture of CADDOCK: TF020R & USF340, AUDIO NOTE & SHINKOH Tantalum.
Reason for this is that these resistors are designs for audio applications. Or do I have too many dollars than sense?
Do you think this would be a overkill and the outcome would be minimum for the outlay?
Greg
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by erichayes » Mon Dec 11, 2006 10:44 pm
Hi All,
As one who designs and builds amplifiers for more than the pleasure of doing so, I hold the boutique components, for the most part, in fairly low regard. Not, mind you, because the parts are low quality (although some of them are), but because the manufacturers and dealers have jacked the prices of average quality parts so high that the buyer's brain is convinced they have to sound better.
My suggestion to you would be to build the amplifier using the parts put forth in the BOM Shannon's worked up. Then listen, listen, and listen some more until you're familiar with all of the amp's sonic idiosyncracies . . . good and bad. Then think about trying different resistors and caps.
A suggestion for any folks out there who intend to roll parts after the initial build: Shannon's boards are exemplary, but they are also double-clad. This makes replacing components a real pain in the ass, even if you use solder wick or a solder sucker. If, on first build, you leave a quarter inch of space between the board and component (which you should do in the case of resistors rated 1 watt or greater anyway), you'll then be able to clip the component lead close to the component and have a "stump" left on the board onto which the new component can be tack-soldered. This stuff isn't going into outer space, so tacking is perfectly acceptable.
As one who designs and builds amplifiers for more than the pleasure of doing so, I hold the boutique components, for the most part, in fairly low regard. Not, mind you, because the parts are low quality (although some of them are), but because the manufacturers and dealers have jacked the prices of average quality parts so high that the buyer's brain is convinced they have to sound better.
My suggestion to you would be to build the amplifier using the parts put forth in the BOM Shannon's worked up. Then listen, listen, and listen some more until you're familiar with all of the amp's sonic idiosyncracies . . . good and bad. Then think about trying different resistors and caps.
A suggestion for any folks out there who intend to roll parts after the initial build: Shannon's boards are exemplary, but they are also double-clad. This makes replacing components a real pain in the ass, even if you use solder wick or a solder sucker. If, on first build, you leave a quarter inch of space between the board and component (which you should do in the case of resistors rated 1 watt or greater anyway), you'll then be able to clip the component lead close to the component and have a "stump" left on the board onto which the new component can be tack-soldered. This stuff isn't going into outer space, so tacking is perfectly acceptable.
Eric in the Jefferson State
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