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I use 6/32 spacers for the circuit board, 8/32 for the transformers.

The cover mounting holes are small, like for # 4 hardware, but they
should probably be drilled out and get some high quality sheet metal
screws that won't twist off and break (I speak from experience)
The stuff is too thin to thread with a tap, and too hard to just use
a cheap sheet metal screw, but better ones may work.

I'm not sure what size or type is best in stainless. I've been drilling
the chassis out to 1/4" and using the inserts lately. I work my way
up with progressively larger bits rather than go right to 1/4".

They must have not drilled this chassis correctly at Triode Electronics as I can not get 6/32 bolts through the board mounting holes on the chassis.

Hmmm .... you said you had them "on hand" ... are you sure some
8/32's didn't take refuge in the 6/32 bin?

I ran out to Lowes just to be sure and have the same problem so I am sure.

I sent ya a PM or two Tom.

You can use some 4/40's if you can find them locally. I usually
look for that kind of stuff at the local Ace Hardware store. You
could use 4/40's with three nuts per bolt, one against the chassis,
and one under the board at the proper spacing, and one holding
the board. Hopefully you can find some locally, or borrow a
drill and fix the holes. Get a sharp bit.

I did a little working on the holes and finally got the bolts through. The board is now mounted in the chassis. Wiring set to begin soon.

Thanks all!

Rex,
I had the same issues with the "number 6" holes on my Triode chassis.
I had to pop them out with a 9/64" drill bit (I think), then the number 6 screws fit fine.
I did not have any problems with the number 8 screws for the transformers.
I also used high quality "self drilling" stainless steel screws to secure the chassis bottom to the top. I can't remember if I drill those holes out with the 9/64" bit or not. It's pretty tough stuff to make threads in, but I took it slow and it worked well for me. YMMV.
Scott

Made a bit more progress tonight...so far....

Well..., the wiring is not quite as pretty as I'd like but it's done. :banana:

I may go back and redo some of it at a later date. The testing will begin soon...

Just remember go back and double check all your resistors with an ohm meter we don't want any 10K ohms maskerading as 10 ohms again holoween is over .

Mark

Your build looks very nice, I'm sure it will sound just as good.

If you want to "dress" up the OPT wiring, you can bundle them along the side wall, then "cable" tie them with a back [loop] stitch using sewing thread, tie off at the ends. Then add two sticky back nylon loops on the side wall for each bundle, one at each end as appropriate, then use nylon tie wrap to fix the bundle to the SBNL - neat. Do all your testing first.

Shannon's board sure makes mounting all the hardware easy.

Negative feedback is set and tubes are biased.

Time to hook this amp up to a source.

It is ALIVE!

and singing

I just have her setting in the bottom. I still have to get a few screws for the bottom and remove the protective film from the sides.

Here she is singing.

Well, the amp sounds great!

Only problem I have is the 4 blue caps are all to tall. I guess I'm gonna have to find a suitable replacement that will fit correctly so the entire amp is not setting on those 4 caps.