DIY ST35 build

for the DIY ST35, the Dynakit and every other PP EL84

Postby TomMcNally » Sun Oct 31, 2010 2:27 pm

I use 6/32 spacers for the circuit board, 8/32 for the transformers.

The cover mounting holes are small, like for # 4 hardware, but they
should probably be drilled out and get some high quality sheet metal
screws that won't twist off and break (I speak from experience)
The stuff is too thin to thread with a tap, and too hard to just use
a cheap sheet metal screw, but better ones may work.

I'm not sure what size or type is best in stainless. I've been drilling
the chassis out to 1/4" and using the inserts lately. I work my way
up with progressively larger bits rather than go right to 1/4".
User avatar
TomMcNally
Darling du Jour
 
Posts: 2729
Joined: Sat Nov 19, 2005 2:19 pm
Location: Northfield, NJ

Postby Rex Everything » Sun Oct 31, 2010 3:09 pm

They must have not drilled this chassis correctly at Triode Electronics as I can not get 6/32 bolts through the board mounting holes on the chassis.
Rex Everything
 
Posts: 70
Joined: Sun Feb 22, 2009 6:26 pm
Location: Las Vegas

Postby TomMcNally » Sun Oct 31, 2010 3:46 pm

Hmmm .... you said you had them "on hand" ... are you sure some
8/32's didn't take refuge in the 6/32 bin? ;)
User avatar
TomMcNally
Darling du Jour
 
Posts: 2729
Joined: Sat Nov 19, 2005 2:19 pm
Location: Northfield, NJ

Postby Rex Everything » Sun Oct 31, 2010 3:54 pm

I ran out to Lowes just to be sure and have the same problem so I am sure.

I sent ya a PM or two Tom.
Rex Everything
 
Posts: 70
Joined: Sun Feb 22, 2009 6:26 pm
Location: Las Vegas

Postby TomMcNally » Sun Oct 31, 2010 4:33 pm

You can use some 4/40's if you can find them locally. I usually
look for that kind of stuff at the local Ace Hardware store. You
could use 4/40's with three nuts per bolt, one against the chassis,
and one under the board at the proper spacing, and one holding
the board. Hopefully you can find some locally, or borrow a
drill and fix the holes. Get a sharp bit.
User avatar
TomMcNally
Darling du Jour
 
Posts: 2729
Joined: Sat Nov 19, 2005 2:19 pm
Location: Northfield, NJ

Postby Rex Everything » Sun Oct 31, 2010 7:05 pm

I did a little working on the holes and finally got the bolts through. The board is now mounted in the chassis. Wiring set to begin soon.

Thanks all!
Rex Everything
 
Posts: 70
Joined: Sun Feb 22, 2009 6:26 pm
Location: Las Vegas

Same hole problem

Postby SVinzant » Sun Oct 31, 2010 7:30 pm

Rex,
I had the same issues with the "number 6" holes on my Triode chassis.
I had to pop them out with a 9/64" drill bit (I think), then the number 6 screws fit fine.
I did not have any problems with the number 8 screws for the transformers.
I also used high quality "self drilling" stainless steel screws to secure the chassis bottom to the top. I can't remember if I drill those holes out with the 9/64" bit or not. It's pretty tough stuff to make threads in, but I took it slow and it worked well for me. YMMV.
Scott
User avatar
SVinzant
 
Posts: 53
Joined: Mon Sep 27, 2010 12:53 pm
Location: Quad Cities, IL

More progress

Postby Rex Everything » Sun Oct 31, 2010 8:40 pm

Made a bit more progress tonight...so far....

Image

Image

Image
Rex Everything
 
Posts: 70
Joined: Sun Feb 22, 2009 6:26 pm
Location: Las Vegas

Postby Rex Everything » Tue Nov 02, 2010 9:07 pm

Well..., the wiring is not quite as pretty as I'd like but it's done. :banana:

I may go back and redo some of it at a later date. The testing will begin soon...


Image

Image
Rex Everything
 
Posts: 70
Joined: Sun Feb 22, 2009 6:26 pm
Location: Las Vegas

Postby battradio » Wed Nov 03, 2010 2:31 am

Just remember go back and double check all your resistors with an ohm meter we don't want any 10K ohms maskerading as 10 ohms again holoween is over :)) .

Mark
Mark
Image
User avatar
battradio
KT88
 
Posts: 927
Joined: Tue Mar 10, 2009 12:58 am
Location: near ST.Louis MO.

ST35

Postby msmpe » Wed Nov 03, 2010 3:10 pm

Your build looks very nice, I'm sure it will sound just as good. [:)

If you want to "dress" up the OPT wiring, you can bundle them along the side wall, then "cable" tie them with a back [loop] stitch using sewing thread, tie off at the ends. Then add two sticky back nylon loops on the side wall for each bundle, one at each end as appropriate, then use nylon tie wrap to fix the bundle to the SBNL - neat. Do all your testing first.

Shannon's board sure makes mounting all the hardware easy.
8>) Mike

If there's no sound in a vacuum, where'd the music come from?
msmpe
KT88
 
Posts: 305
Joined: Wed Mar 26, 2008 12:31 pm
Location: central california coast

Postby Rex Everything » Fri Nov 05, 2010 6:39 pm

Negative feedback is set and tubes are biased.

Time to hook this amp up to a source.
Rex Everything
 
Posts: 70
Joined: Sun Feb 22, 2009 6:26 pm
Location: Las Vegas

Postby Rex Everything » Fri Nov 05, 2010 7:05 pm

It is ALIVE!

and singing
Rex Everything
 
Posts: 70
Joined: Sun Feb 22, 2009 6:26 pm
Location: Las Vegas

Postby Rex Everything » Fri Nov 05, 2010 7:44 pm

I just have her setting in the bottom. I still have to get a few screws for the bottom and remove the protective film from the sides.

Here she is singing.

Image
Rex Everything
 
Posts: 70
Joined: Sun Feb 22, 2009 6:26 pm
Location: Las Vegas

Postby Rex Everything » Sun Nov 07, 2010 10:13 am

Well, the amp sounds great!

Only problem I have is the 4 blue caps are all to tall. I guess I'm gonna have to find a suitable replacement that will fit correctly so the entire amp is not setting on those 4 caps.
Rex Everything
 
Posts: 70
Joined: Sun Feb 22, 2009 6:26 pm
Location: Las Vegas

PreviousNext

Return to stereo 35

Who is online

Users browsing this forum: No registered users and 18 guests