DIY ST35 build

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DIY ST35 build

Postby Rex Everything » Sun Aug 08, 2010 7:15 pm

I am getting ready to start building one of the DIY ST35 amps. I have a very nice factory wired Dynaco ST35 that will be donating the iron for this project.

I have already received the board (thanks Shannon!) and ordered the BOM passives from Mauser.

Aside from the chassis what else do you all think I'll need. Here is a list I have put together

6 - 9 pin tube sockets

1 - power switch

4 - speaker terminals

2 - RCA inputs

4 - stand offs

1 - power socket

1 - fuse holder

You all see anything I missed? Any suggestions on specific parts (part numbers...)

Thanks in advance.
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Postby TomMcNally » Mon Aug 09, 2010 8:39 am

There is a complete parts list with Mouser numbers in the manual.
You might want to take a look at that.

... tom
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Postby elbinster » Mon Aug 09, 2010 11:08 am

If memory serves, you'll want 6 standoffs, but I remember the list in the manual being quite complete.
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Postby Rex Everything » Mon Aug 09, 2010 1:38 pm

I used the BOM to order from Mauser. Guess I should look at the manual.
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Postby Rex Everything » Sun Oct 24, 2010 5:16 pm

Well...I think I have everything on it's way. Now just a trip out to get nuts and bolts and spade connectors and this project should start rolling.
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Postby Ty_Bower » Sun Oct 24, 2010 5:46 pm

Rex Everything wrote:Now just a trip out to get nuts and bolts...


A few projects ago, I bought a whole bunch of stainless hardware from Bolt Depot. I ended up getting a bunch of #4-40 and #8-32 pan head machine screws, along with nuts, flat washers, and lock washers. I still have spares which I'm slowly using on today's projects.

I also like to us 00 flat faucet washers under all the transformer mountings, particularly the power transformer. It cuts down a little on PT vibration. I've sometimes used a stack of faucet washers as a standoff. It's cheaper than metal standoffs, and adjustable too!

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Postby Rex Everything » Sun Oct 24, 2010 6:37 pm

Thanks for the tips.
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Progress

Postby Rex Everything » Sat Oct 30, 2010 10:45 pm

Made some progress on the DIY ST35 tonight. I just wish the manual had more details on the wire connections for us newbs.

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Postby Geek » Sun Oct 31, 2010 12:20 am

Sweet chassis! Is that stainless?

Cheres!
-= Gregg =-
Fine wine comes in glass bottles, not plastic sacks. Therefore the finer electrons are also found in glass bottles.
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Postby Rex Everything » Sun Oct 31, 2010 9:21 am

Geek wrote:Sweet chassis! Is that stainless?

Cheres!


Yes it is. It's the chassis from Triode Electronics.
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Postby Rex Everything » Sun Oct 31, 2010 10:21 am

So, where do the test points go on this board? I ordered the ones on the BOM but there is no mention of where they go.

I'm a bit curious why Triode did not drill holes for test point or bias adjust pots in this chassis since it's specifically made for this board. Gonna make bias setting and adjusting a bit of a pain.
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Postby TomMcNally » Sun Oct 31, 2010 12:51 pm

I've never used any test points, I just touch the meter probes to
the pads on the circuit board. If you got those little loop points,
they solder into the holes. If you wanted to adjust from the top,
the pots would need to be on the top of the board anyway, and
it would be kind of fugly.

With this amp, it's not hard to flip it over and adjust from the bottom.
You'll only do it every couple of years when you replace the tubes.

Follow the advice in the manual and preset the pots, it's very close.
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Postby Rex Everything » Sun Oct 31, 2010 1:25 pm

Thanks Tom!
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Postby TomMcNally » Sun Oct 31, 2010 1:53 pm

Here's the bottom view of one with recycled transformers like yours,
I bought it on eBay cheap and finished it up. I spliced longer leads
on the transformers where needed.I tried to use similar colors, and
used heat shrink tubing on the splices. The guy didn't use the barrier
strips, it has turrets, so it may have come from Uncle Ned.

Notice I put aluminum 6/32 RivNuts in the holes that hold the bottom plate
on. Be very careful if you use sheet metal screws, that stainless is
hard, and cheap screws will break off in the holes.

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Postby Rex Everything » Sun Oct 31, 2010 2:12 pm

Very coo;! Thanks so much Tom!

I tried some 6-32x3/8 bolts I had here on hand and they will not fit through the holes in the Triode chassis.

Did you use different mounting hardware, Tom?
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