by EWBrown » Tue Oct 05, 2004 12:45 pm
The PCB has three pads for each of the pots in a little triangle, and two of the pads are wired together (wiper and one end). Just wire the pot the same way, tie the wiper (center) and one end together, connect that to either one of the "joined" PCB pads, and connect the other "free" end of the pot to the remaining pad on the PCB. If you want clockwise rotation of the pot to increase the bias current (reduce the resistance value) then connect the center and right hand side pot lugs together (pot shaft pointed towards you, the three connectiions on top. Small guage, twisted pair (22) wire should be fine for this application.
Conversely, the original trimpots could just be top mounted, and access holes can be drilled to match up with them, and test points from the top of the 10 ohm resistor(s) can be brought out to "pin" jacks wherever it is convenient, so that the Par-Metal chassis doesn't have to be opened whenever the bias has to checked or adjusted.
One hint: Turn the Par Metal chassis "upside down" so that the vent holes are on the bottom, the unpunched plate is somewhat thicker (0.090 inch) and stronger. this will better support the three transformers and makes for a much neater appearance. I use Radio Shack "stick-on" rubber feet to allow for airflow underneath. The removable front panel is 1/8 inch thick, so some insulated RCA jacks might not mount properly.
On the Rev B unit in my "gallery", I used isolated BNC jacks, and RCA to BNC adapters. For some applications, I use BNC cables rather than RCAs, just an old RF geek's habits, I guess...
/ed B in NH.
Real Radios Glow in the Dark