Auricaps: black in, red out

[EWBrown]

The Auricaps should be connected so that the signal enters the black wire, and exits the red wire. In the case of the DIY35, the red wire should go to grid 1 of the EL84s. For bypass caps, the black should connect to ground, the red to the + or - voltage.

This was "borrowed" from another site describing these caps:

Description:

The capacitor arrived in a small box, packed in a plastic bag containing mounting instructions.

In fact, as the most refined of us require special cares, even these capacitors have a peculiar attitude, as it seems. The capacitor are axial models with flexible, insulated, multistrand leads coming out of each side. One lead is black and the other one red. If the capacitor is used in the signal path the signal must enter through the black lead and get out through the red one.

If the capacitor is used as power supply bypass unit, the black lead should be connected to ground and the red one to the + or - voltage. Finally, if the capacitor is used in loudspeakers crossovers, the red lead should be toward the + terminal and the black one towards the - one.

And from Auricap "application notes"

http://www.soundlabsgroup.com.au/aurica ... _notes.htm


THis has to do with which lead is connected to the outer foil, rather than actual polarity (as in electrolytics).

/ed B in NH

[JG]

Hmm, I didn't know they were directional in that sense.

They seem to be working fine. Should I re-solder them in?

:?

[EWBrown]

I guess the old adage "if it ain't broken, don't fix it" would apply here.
I owuld think that the "polarity" issue would be much more germaine to preamps and phono stages, where the signal levels are much lower, and
this could make a much more noticeable difference.

I'd just leave the caps in the way they are, the difference would probably take sensitive instrumentation, rather than a good ear, to notice. If you decide to do any later mods or upgrades, then they could be re-installed at that time.

/ed brown