Another ST-35 and VTA SP-6

[SDS-PAGE]

http://bp1.blogger.com/_i08-ibvZ150/SEN29bNHK3I/AAAAAAAAA9A/cKIRTwpq7tw/s1600-h/S5033323.JPG

http://bp1.blogger.com/_i08-ibvZ150/SEN2-Cc8fLI/AAAAAAAAA9I/wKTgU6EQsDs/s1600-h/S5033326.JPG

http://bp1.blogger.com/_i08-ibvZ150/SEN2-gWa5rI/AAAAAAAAA9Q/JAY7F8XVLiM/s1600-h/S5033327.JPG

Built this combo for a friend in the bay area. Again, the ST-35 proves to be one of the nicest sounding amps I've heard. It just makes you wanna listen more. It's nice to have some amps laying around to compare. I also like the SP-6 + ST-35 combo. All irons are Dynaclones by Triode. The steel chassis by Triode cut the construction time by five fold. Yellow_Light_Colorz_PDT_16

[TomMcNally]

I wonder if you have tried to put screws in the sides to hold the
bottom cover on ? I broke many types of stainless screws off
in the holes, even after using a tap to thread them. That stuff
is tough ! I finally wound up just sticking some machine screws
in the holes, they aren't really tightened, but they do hold it
together. The stainless is thin and HARD !

Anyone else have any experience ?

It the preamp your design Min, or one of those eBay clones ?

[SDS-PAGE]

Tom,
You're right about those screw holes. I ended up making the holes a little bigger and using 1/2" black self-tapping screws often used for speakers. The preamp is Roy Motram's SP-6: http://www.tubes4hifi.com/pre3.htm This is the second one I built and really liking it. -Min

[jduffy]

How deep are the standoffs on the pre? The one tube looks much higher up than the others. Is it on a separate PCB?

I built the Hagtech Cornet2 which uses a PCB and used shorter than suggested standoffs to get the tubes to come up a bit more. My rectifier tube sits flush and the others are very close to the top of the chassis.

Great work you do. Some day I'll build a PP amp.

[SDS-PAGE]

Thanks. If you click on the link that shows pictures of Roy Motram's SP-6, you will see that the tubes are on the same side as all the passive components. I guess I could have put the passive components on the other side to mount the PCB on the top plate and get the tubes stick out, but the board is a bit hard to follow as it is w/o labels.

The PCB is mounted at the bottom of the 2" deep chassis via 1/2" standoffs. The tall tube is a 12x4 rectifier.

I find it easier to build PPs and preamps using PCBs. Just too many parts worry about. Don't mind handwiring SE amps though.

[K-MAN]

Nice looking amp, do you have any underside shots?

[SDS-PAGE]

Thanks. Under the hood:

http://bp0.blogger.com/_i08-ibvZ150/SEhzga2986I/AAAAAAAAA9w/wcISgrV3dxY/s1600-h/ST-35+inside.JPG

http://bp0.blogger.com/_i08-ibvZ150/SEhzfL9mB4I/AAAAAAAAA9o/T9JZ4qu6B2Y/s1600-h/SP-6+inside.JPG

Notice how much more colorful it is from the inside. The Triode ST-35 chassis is pretty nice, even though I really wish Soundtastik still made theirs.

Tom, I was able to use short self-tapping hex screws after I drilled each holes bigger.

[Brik]

Nicely done!
I especially like the the neat wiring under the hood.

/b