Please HELP

for the DIY ST35, the Dynakit and every other PP EL84

troubleshooting

Postby Shannon Parks » Mon Mar 01, 2004 10:21 am

Cleve,
-Can you actually see the filaments light up?
-Take a measurement (with test clips) across R34 & R35 (R43 on the Rev B). You should get around a 7V drop here. What do you see?
-Take a measurement (with a test clip) on the left and right of R33 and record those voltages.

Cleve, you don't have easy access to a digital camera, do you? A picture sometimes tells - you know. ;)

Shannon
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REV C? Check the 0.1 ohm resistors

Postby EWBrown » Mon Mar 01, 2004 5:18 pm

It sounds like the voltages are being delivered, but the tubes aren't lighting up. The 3.5VAC/7VAC is a possible tipoff, check that the two 0.1 ohm resistors are installed on the board, and that they are in fact 0.1 ohms and not a higher value. If you don't have the 0.1 ohm resistors, the locations can be temporarily filled with a wire jumper.

I had one weird problem a while ago, in teh phase inverter 12AU7 circuit, I placed 3.3K resistors instead of 33K. The amp had very weak fuzzy sound in both channels. Replaced then with the correct value, everything worked perfectly.

/ed brown
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my worst fear...

Postby Shannon Parks » Tue Mar 02, 2004 7:41 am

The sockets are on upside down. Doh!

On the old Rev B I had a little message in the silkscreen reading, 'Sockets Other Side'. On the Rev C, I added the numbers and moved the 'Sockets Side' message to the other side, but unfortunately the silkscreen wasn't processed on that side. I was worried this might happen to someone - I'll be sure to draw even more attention to it in the manual (step 7).

OK, Cleve, if you don't have a hot air gun, removing the sockets may be difficult - you can send the board to me and I'll fix it. But, this will also change how you were planning to mount the board in the first place. Hmmm.

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Actually...

Postby Shannon Parks » Tue Mar 02, 2004 7:59 am

At this stage (since your chassis is decided on) - I would suggest the 'cut n jumper' route. The jumpers would be on the underneath, so the rats nest would be hidden. Just get a sharp exacto and cut at least .100" out from the jumpered traces. You wouldn't have to cut pin 5 at least. :)

Your tubes have probably survived. Solid State wouldn't have made it though!! ;)

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Re: fixed and it rocks!!!!!!!!!!!!

Postby Shannon Parks » Tue Mar 02, 2004 6:01 pm

clevegilbert wrote:I removed the sockets and put 'em in right. Duh, I will not make that mistake again. The board it's on is a protyping platform, just to learn from. After fixing the sockets I put it all back together again.


BTW, how did fix the sockets? Did you use a hot air gun? Or cut the pins and replace the sockets?

Here's a quote for you: "There are those who have, and those who will." #-o

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