Thinking of switching to diode rectification

[patrickn]

So the first JJ GZ34 failed after about 6 months. I replaced it with a Sovtek and it lasted about a year. This is acceptable because I use it daily so they can be expected to fail at some point. The last Sovtek I put in lasted only two weeks! This is getting annoying. Are there any reliable newly manufactured GZ34s that anybody knows of? Anybody else have problems with these failing very soon?

I am using a 33uF for the first cap, 1.5H choke, followed by a 120uF cap for the input of the power supply.

Edit: The first JJ actually lasted almost 6 months, not 2

[SDS-PAGE]

I would give the WZ34 by Weber copper can cap(http://www.webervst.com/ccap.html) that's a direct drop-in replacementfor GZ34 a try. At 22 bucks, it probably is cheaper than all those tubes that you fried.

[patrickn]

That's a good idea! I was trying to think of how to make this an easily reversible modification. It doesn't get much easier than dropping in one of those solid state rectifier "tubes"

[pacomus]

I bought a WZ34 Weber copper cap last week cos i want to know if it's suitable for my ST35-220v version.

I heard on that those solid state rectifiers need a stand by mode before a normal operation, but my ST-35 has no stand-by switch (see post "stand-by switch warning").

Could be any problem with that?

[Ty_Bower]

...my ST-35 has no stand-by switch (see post "stand-by switch warning").

Could be any problem with that?

I don't see the lack of a standby switch on the ST35 as a problem, even with solid state rectification. The original Dynaco ST35 had no standby, used solid state rectifier diodes, and few problems were reported. Shannon's version of the ST35 includes a NTC device (the CL-90) which will help slow the rise of the B+ in lieu of a standby mode.

I'd just use the solid state rectifier and not worry about it.