Tying the screen grid to the anode to run in "triode" mode will typically cut your output power by 1/3 to 1/2. In my EL34 triode connected amps I have used a UF4007 diode in series with the 100 ohm resistor with the resistor attached to the anode and the banded end of diode attached to the screen grid pin. This seems to help restore some of the lost power. I am in the process of building a PPP EL84 triode connected amp now so most of my experience hase been with EL34 and similar higher power pentodes and been tetrodes.
Triode operation is explained on many sites on the web.
Here is one.
http://www.webace.com.au/~electron/tubes/triode.htm
I can attest that the sound is definitley better to MY ears.
The soundstage is just as open but the lows, mids and highs seem to be better defined. I loaned a JJ EL34 triode connected amp to a friend here at work who I built a stock ST70 for and he wants to buy the new one from me now. He noticed the difference right away.
Triode connected JJ EL34s sound great as do JJ KT77s and EH6CA7s....I have a set of EHKT88s though that do not sound as good when subsituted in the same amp so tube some rolling is worthwhile.
It is not to much trouble to install a 4pdt switch so your amp has dual capability. Its a good bet you will need to rebias the tubes when switching modes (turning off the amp of course).