I know there's a difference on the DIYTUBE ST-35 board if you chose Hammond or Triode transformers, what about the set of transfos from Tubezone???
Thanks
Andre
Tubezone Trx
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Tubezone Trx
by Andre » Wed Apr 11, 2007 9:09 am
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by SteveH » Wed Apr 11, 2007 10:06 am
Andre -
What transformers are you asking about - output or power ? As far as the output transformers go, the only differences (besides sound perhaps) would be the wire colors (some OPT's might have different ohm taps as well).
To the best of my knowledge, the Dynaco clones from tubezone are the same clones as everyone else sells.
What transformers are you asking about - output or power ? As far as the output transformers go, the only differences (besides sound perhaps) would be the wire colors (some OPT's might have different ohm taps as well).
To the best of my knowledge, the Dynaco clones from tubezone are the same clones as everyone else sells.
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by Andre » Wed Apr 11, 2007 1:36 pm
Hi Steve.
I'm refering to a set , so to answer your question, it's (power + outputs)!!
I'm not talking about the color or the sound but the change in parts on the board!!! ie: if I use Hammond 270HX, R36 and R37 must be .05 Ohms, if I use an original Dynaco PA774, so R36, R37 must be .025 Ohms!
Got It now?
Andre
I'm refering to a set , so to answer your question, it's (power + outputs)!!
I'm not talking about the color or the sound but the change in parts on the board!!! ie: if I use Hammond 270HX, R36 and R37 must be .05 Ohms, if I use an original Dynaco PA774, so R36, R37 must be .025 Ohms!
Got It now?
Andre
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by SteveH » Wed Apr 11, 2007 2:07 pm
Andre,
The reason for this is because the Hammond transformers run a little high on the voltage. So R35/R36's higher value when using said transformer will cool off the heater voltage down to where it should be.
To my knowledge, that is the only change to the board - unless you are like me and try to tackle issues that are slightly above your ability....In which case you can count on these guys here to help bail you out :D
Hope that helps,
Steve
The reason for this is because the Hammond transformers run a little high on the voltage. So R35/R36's higher value when using said transformer will cool off the heater voltage down to where it should be.
To my knowledge, that is the only change to the board - unless you are like me and try to tackle issues that are slightly above your ability....In which case you can count on these guys here to help bail you out :D
Hope that helps,
Steve
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by Andre » Wed Apr 11, 2007 4:06 pm
Thanks Steve.
I understand what you said, it's just a matter of knowing before I mount everything, the board has already R36, R37 at .05 Ohms, that why I asked about the Tubezone trx.
Andre
I understand what you said, it's just a matter of knowing before I mount everything, the board has already R36, R37 at .05 Ohms, that why I asked about the Tubezone trx.
Andre
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by EWBrown » Thu Apr 12, 2007 5:21 am
It should be OK to just leave the 0.05 ohms resistors in there. In actuality, even a jumper wire will have some small amount of resistance.
The total drop from the two 0.05s will be around 0.37 VAC, which is pretty negligible. If the filament voltage is in the ballpark range of 6.0 to 6.6 VAC, with all the tubes plugged in, there should be no issues.
An alternative to removing the 0.05 ohms, is to solder a jumper wire to "short out" each of the two resistors, on the opposite side of the PC board. This will be facing up, under teh chassis, so it will not be visible
HTH
/ed B in NH
The total drop from the two 0.05s will be around 0.37 VAC, which is pretty negligible. If the filament voltage is in the ballpark range of 6.0 to 6.6 VAC, with all the tubes plugged in, there should be no issues.
An alternative to removing the 0.05 ohms, is to solder a jumper wire to "short out" each of the two resistors, on the opposite side of the PC board. This will be facing up, under teh chassis, so it will not be visible
HTH
/ed B in NH
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by Shannon Parks » Thu Apr 12, 2007 5:37 am
Andre, could you post a link to those trannies?
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